Time To Brighten The Cold Winter Days With Some Crochet Flowers – First Up: Snowdrops

I have had an idea in mind for some crochet mini flower themed squares that could be joined together to make cushions/blankets for a while but haven’t had a chance to get started on them. With the new year arriving along with the cold winter days I decided it was time to do something to brighten them up and finally get started on these flower squares.

I have a lot of flower ideas in mind (think I will be busy making them for a while!) and it took a bit of time to decide on which to make first, however, after a bit of thinking I decided to start with a flower often seen at this time of year – the Snowdrop.

I opted to do them in a sc stitch in a square format, and will keep all the squares the same size so then can all be joined together at a later date. The size of the square is: 16x16cm.

The pattern to make this snowdrop square is available over on Patreon as this month’s members free pattern.

Crochet Mini Christmas Present Boxes Pattern

These little boxes are great for little presents to go in (anything to save on all the wrapping!), for hiding in a few sweets, and would also be perfect for just using as a decoration this Christmas. You can use any colours you like for these, I think they would look great in some sparkly wool – I thought I had some but wasn’t able to find it so opted for the red and green theme, I will be definitely making some sparkly ones for next year!.

Crochet mini Christmas present boxes pattern

Materials:

  • 4mm crochet hook.
  • Wool: 25g of red wool, 25g green wool.
  • Darning needle.
  • Scissors.
  • Stitch marker.

Crochet Christmas present – lid:

Using red wool:

ch13, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc along rest of the row (12).

Rows 1-11: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along the row.

Round 1: sc down the side edge (12sc – one into each row end), along the bottom edge (12sc), up the other side (12sc – one into each row end) and along the top edge (12sc)(each corner will have 2sc).

Round 2: in back loops only: sc around.

Rounds 3-4: sc around.

Fasten off.

Crochet Christmas present – main box:

Using red wool:

ch12, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc along rest of the row (11).

Rows 1-10: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along the row.

Round 1: sc down the side edge (11sc – one into each row end), along the bottom edge (11sc), up the other side (11sc – one into each row end) and along the top edge (11sc)(each corner will have 2sc).

Round 2: in back loops only: sc around.

Rounds 3-14: sc around.

Fasten off.

Crochet Christmas present – Ribbon detail:

Using green wool:

Working along the bottom edge of the present, using the remaining front loops from round 2 of the main box.

Choose one side of the box and working from the right hand side of this face, skip 4 stitches, then cast on (pull up loop, ch1 sc into same sc). sc into the next 2 stitches. Turn.

Rows 1-9: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along the row, turn.

ch1, ss into top edge of the main box (skip 4 stitches from the right), ss into the next 2 stitches.

Fasten off.

  • Repeat for the remaining 3 sides.

Crochet Christmas present – Bow:

Using green wool:

ch4, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc along rest of row.

Rows 1-70: ch1 (doesn’t count) sc along row.

Fasten off.

  • Attach bow to lid of the present.

Star Wars Golf Club Covers Pattern Series: Part 1 – Yoda

Time for a Star Wars themed crochet golf club cover takeover!

The first crochet golf club cover I made a few weeks ago had a plaid effect pattern and although I want to make a few more like this with different pattern designs I decided for the next few to move away from this and I am going to make a few Star Wars themed covers.

I have a ridiculously long list of ones I want to make and have a feeling there will be many more Star Wars themed golf club covers appearing on here over the next few months.

First up is a Baby Yoda golf club cover – I opted to make this one first as it has a lot less detail than some of my other ideas making it ideal for testing out whether It would work as a golf club cover before moving on to the ones with a lot more detail.

Check out more crochet Star Wars themed makes (including light sabres and characters over here).

Baby Yoda Golf Club Cover Pattern

Finished size (approx.):

To make it a little bigger if needed use a slightly bigger crochet hook (4.5-5mm).

  • Widest point on the upper section: 12.5cm at the widest point of the head.
  • 9cm wide stretchy bit at the bottom.

Materials:

  • 4mm crochet hook.
  • Wool: 25g balls of DK in:
    • Brown.
    • Light brown.
    • Green.
    • Black.
  • Stitch markers.
  • Darning needle.

To make the Baby Yoda golf club cover:

Main body:

Starting in brown:

ch42, htr/hdc into 3rd ch from the hook, htr/hdc along rest of the row.

Rows 1-23: ch32 (doesn’t count as a stitch) in the back loops only: htr/hdc along the row.

Fold in half so the first and last row meet, ch1, ss along the edge to join.

Round 1: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) *(sc into next row end, 2sc into next row end) repeat from * along the row, ss into sc at the start of the round (34sc).

Round 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc around, ss into sc at the start of the round.

Round 3: Repeat row 2. Change to light brown.

Rounds 4-5: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch) htr/hdc around, skip ss and ch2, ss into htr/hdc at the start of the round.

Round 6: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch) in to the front loops only: htr/hdc around, skip ss and ch2, ss into htr/hdc at the start of the round. Leave one stitch marker at this point as you will reattach at this point later to add the head.

Round 7: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch) htr/hdc around, skip ss and ch2, ss into htr/hdc at the start of the round.

Round 8: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (2htr/hdc, 2htr into the next stitch) 11 times, skip ss and ch2, ss into htr/hdc at the start of the round (45htr/hdc).

Round 9: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch) htr/hdc around, skip ss and ch2, ss into htr/hdc at the start of the round.

Round 10: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc around the front post of the next stitch (insert hook from the back around the front post of the stitch and out to the back then complete the stitch). Repeat around, skip ch1 and ss and ss into sc at the start of the round.

Fasten off.

In green:

Go back to the stitch marker left on round 6, cast on in the first back loop from round 6: pull up loop, ch1, sc into the back loop. sc around the row in the back loops only. skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at the start of the round.

Round 1: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (5sc, 2sc into the next sc) 5 times, 4sc, skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at the start of the round (39sc).

Round 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (5sc, 2sc into the next sc) 6 times, 3sc, skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at the start of the round (45sc).

Round 3: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc around, skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at start of the round.

Round 4: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (5sc, 2sc into the next sc) 7 times, 3sc, skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at the start of the round (52sc).

Rounds 5-16: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc around, skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at start of the round.

Round 17: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (5sc, sc2tog) 7 times, 3sc, skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at the start of the round (45sc).

Round 18: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc around, skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at start of the round.

Round 19: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (5sc, sc2tog) 6 times, 3sc, skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at the start of the round (39sc).

Round 20: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (5sc, sc2tog) 5 times, 4sc, skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at the start of the round (34sc).

Round 21: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc around, skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at start of the round.

Round 22: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (5sc, sc2tog) 4 times, 6sc, skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at the start of the round (30sc).

Round 23: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (5sc, sc2tog) 4 times, 2sc, skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at the start of the round (26sc).

Round 24: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (3sc, sc2tog) 5 times, 1sc, skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at the start of the round (21sc).

Round 25: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (3sc, sc2tog) 4 times, 1sc, skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at the start of the round (17sc).

Round 26: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (2sc, sc2tog) 4 times, 1sc, skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at the start of the round (13sc).

Round 27: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (1sc, sc2tog) 4 times, 1sc, skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at the start of the round (9sc).

Round 28: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (sc2tog) 4 times, 1sc, skip ss and ch1 and ss into sc at the start of the round (5sc).

Fasten off.

  • Weave in and out of the remaining stitches and pull tight to close.

Ears – Make 2:

In green:

ch17, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc along rest of the row.

Row 1: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row (16sc).

Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc2tog, 12sc, sc2tog (14sc).

Row 3: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row (14sc).

Row 4: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc2tog, 10sc, sc2tog (12sc).

Row 5: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row (12sc).

Row 6: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row (12sc).

Row 7: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc2tog, 8sc, sc2tog (10sc).

Row 8: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row (10sc).

Row 9: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row (10sc).

Row 10: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc2tog, 6sc, sc2tog (8sc).

Row 11: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row (8sc).

Row 12: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row (8sc).

Row 13: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc2tog, 4sc, sc2tog (6sc).

Row 14: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row (6sc).

Row 15: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row (6sc).

Row 16: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc2tog, 2sc, sc2tog (4sc).

Row 17: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row (4sc).

Row 18: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row (4sc).

Row 19: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc2tog twice (2sc).

Row 20: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 2sc, then sc around the edge of the ear, ss into sc at the start of the round (the first sc of row 20).

Fasten off, leaving long thread to attach.

  • Fold in the bottom of the two sides of the ear by 1cm and sew to secure.
  • Sew the ears onto the side of the head, sewing along the front edge first, then sewing down the back edge.

Eyes – Make 2:

In black:

Make a magic ring, ch1, 6sc into ring.

Round 1: 2sc, 2sc into next stitch, 2sc, 2sc into next stitch (8sc).

Round 2: 3sc, 2sc into next stitch, 3sc, 2sc into next stitch (10sc).

Fasten off, leaving long thread to attach.

Sew eyes onto the front of the head.

Nose:

In green:

Make a magic ring, ch1, 6sc into ring.

Round 1: In back loops only: sc around.

Fasten off, leaving long thread to attach.

Sew nose onto the front of the head under the eyes.

Weather Is Getting Colder, Time For Another Winter Make: Crochet Plaid/Interlocking Block Stitch Fingerless Gloves/Wrist Warmers Pattern

Following on from my crochet block stitch ear warmer and plaid effect interlocking block stitch hat I am still continuing with the winter accessory theme, I really liked how my plaid effect hat turned out with the interlocking block stitch and wanted to make some fingerless gloves/wrist warmers using the same effect.

I didn’t want to match the colour schemes on the hat and gloves completely so I opted to keep two of the colours the same and change the spearmint wool to a light beige.

The grey: DK wool, no idea where I got this one from, I normally keep them with the labels but for some reason this one seems to have lost its one!.

The light beige: DK wool, HobbyCraft Everyday DK in beige.

The blue: DK wool, Stylecraft Special DK in Aster (1003).



Crochet Plaid/Interlocking Block Stitch Gloves/Wrist Warmers Pattern:

Materials:

  • 4mm crochet hook.
  • Scissors.
  • Darning needle.
  • Wool: 3 colours. I used grey (colour 1), blue (colour 2) and light beige (colour 3).



Notes:

  • Change colour on last yo of previous stitch.



Plaid Gloves/Wrist Warmers Pattern:

4mm hook, colour 1.



Ribbed section:

ch9, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc along rest of row.

Rows 1-33: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along the row in back loops only (A how to guide on ribbed stitches can be found here).

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Main part of gloves:

Row 1: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 33sc along the top of the ribbed section, placing an sc into the end of each row.

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Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 2sc into 1st stitch, 10sc, 2sc into next stitch, 10sc, 2sc into next sc, 5sc, 2sc into next sc, 4sc, 2sc into next sc (39sc.)

Row 3: ch3 (counts as a stitch) 2tr/dc, (ch3, skip 3, 3tr/dc) 6 times. Change to colour 2.

Row 4: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc, ch3, skip 2 (3tr/dc – on into each stitch two rows below, ch3, skip 3) 5 times, 3tr/dc – on into each stitch two rows below, ch3, skip 2, sc into top of ch3 from row below. Change to colour 3.

Row 5: ch3 (counts as a stitch) 2tr/dc – one into each tr/dc two rows below, (ch3, skip 3, 3tr/dc – one into each tr/dc two rows below) 5 times, ch3, skip 3, 2tr/dc – one into each tr/dc 2 rows below, tr/dc into final sc. Change to colour 1.

Row 6: Repeat row 3, change to colour 2.

Row 7: Repeat row 4, change to colour 3.

Row 8: Repeat row 3, change to colour 1.

Row 9: Repeat row 4, change to colour 2.

Row 10: Repeat row 3, change to colour 3.

Row 11: Repeat row 4, change to colour 1.

Row 12: Repeat row 3, change to colour 2.

Row 13: Repeat row 4, change to colour 3.

Row 14: Repeat row 3, change to colour 1.

Row 15: Repeat row 4, change to colour 2.

Row 16: Repeat row 3, change to colour 3.

Row 17: Repeat row 4, change to colour 1.

Row 18: Repeat row 3, change to colour 2.

Row 19: Repeat row 4, change to colour 3.

Row 20: Repeat row 3, change to colour 1.

Row 21: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc, 2tr/dc – one into each tr/dc 2 rows below, 3sc (3tr/dc – one into each tr/dc two rows below, ch3, skip 3) 4 times, 3tr – one into each tr/dc 2 rows below, 3sc, 2tr/dc- one into each tr/dc 2 rows below, sc. Change to colour 2.

Row 22: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 6sc, ch3 (skip 3, 3tr/dc – one into each tr/dc 2 rows below, ch3, skip 3) 3 times, 3tr/dc – one into each tr/dc 2 rows below, ch3, skip 3, 6sc. Change to colour 3.

Row 23: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 6sc, (3tr/dc – one into each tr/dc two rows below, ch3, skip 3) 4 times, 3tr/dc – one into each tr/dc 2 rows below, 6sc. Change to colour 1.

Row 24: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 6sc (ch3, skip 3, 3tr/dc – one into each tr/dc 2 rows below) 4 times, ch3, skip 3, 6sc.

Fasten off.

In colour 2:

Cast on in the 6th sc along from the right side – the stitch just before the first ch3 section (pull up loop, ch1, sc into same sc), (3tr/dc- one into each tr/dc 2 rows below, 3sc) 4 times, 3tr/dc – one into each tr/dc 2 rows below, turn leaving rest of the row unworked. Change to colour 3.

Row 1: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row. Change to colour 1.

Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row. Keep colour 1.

Row 3: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row, fold glove in half wrong sides together and sc down the side and around the thumb whole.

Fasten off.

  • Turn glove inside out so right sides are facing together and sew along the the side edge to join.
  • Turn out the right way.
  • Make another so you have a pair.

Time For Something Sporty: Crochet Plaid Effect Golf Club Cover – Perfect Gift Idea

Over the last few months I’ve had a couple of queries about whether I could put some golf club covers together, I half agreed at the time and said I would put them on my list of things to make but it could be a little while until they would be made!.

With Christmas approaching I realised that I could make the golf club covers as gifts that I could put together in time for Christmas. I must admit I have left it a little later than I originally planned to get them made but I think I should have just enough time to get them finished, if not I will be having a few late nights to get them completed!

I have a few different designs in mind and all of them pretty random but I think they will work out well (well, hopefully!). The fist I have got completed is a plaid effect cover with pom pom detail.

Wool used:

Colour 1 (Black): Hobbycraft Everyday DK in black.

Colour 2 (Orange): Hobbycraft Everyday DK in orange.

Colour 3 (Beige): Hobbycraft Everyday DK in Biege.

Plaid effect golf club pattern:

Materials:

  • 4mm crochet hook.
  • Wool: 50g balls in 3 different colours, I used black (colour 1), orange (colour 2) and beige (colour 3).
  • Scissors.
  • Stitch marker.
  • Darning needle.
  • Pom pom maker/2 pieces of card to make a pom pom 5.5cm in diameter. 

Finished size:

  • 9cm wide stretchy bit at the bottom
  • Widest point on the upper section – 12cm.
  • 24cm tall.

Notes:

  • Change colour on the last yo of the previous stitch.
  • When completing the plaid section and changing colours carry along the unused colour by placing along the top of the previous row and competing the stitch as normal.

Crochet golf club pattern:

Starting in colour 1:

Row 1: ch25, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc along rest of the row (24).

Rows 2-38: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) in back loops only; sc along row (ribbed stitch how to can be found here).

Row 39: Fold in half so the two short ends meet then ss along the edge to join.

Round 1: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc around into ends of the previous rows (38sc), ss into sc at the start of the round. 

Round 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc into the same sc, sc around, skip ss and ch1 and ss into 1st sc of the round.

Round 3: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (5sc, 2sc into the next stitch) 6 times, 2sc, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st sc of the round (44).

Round 4: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc into the same sc, sc around, skip ss and ch1 and ss into 1st sc of the round.

Round 5: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (10sc, 2sc into the next stitch) 4 times, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st sc of the round (48).

Round 6: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 4htr/hdc (change to colour 2, 4htr/hdc, change to colour 1, 4htr/hdc) 5 times, change to colour 2, 4htr/hdc, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st htr/hdc of the round. Change to colour 1.

Round 7: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 4htr/hdc (change to colour 2, 4htr/hdc, change to colour 1, 4htr/hdc) 5 times, change to colour 2, 4htr/hdc, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st htr/hdc of the round.

Round 8: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 4htr/hdc (change to colour 3, 4htr/hdc, change to colour 2, 4htr/hdc) 5 times, change to colour 3, 4htr/hdc, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st htr/hdc of the round. Change to colour 2.

Round 9: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 4htr/hdc (change to colour 3, 4htr/hdc, change to colour 2, 4htr/hdc) 5 times, change to colour 3, 4htr/hdc, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st htr/hdc of the round. Change to colour 1.

Round 10: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 4htr/hdc (change to colour 2, 4htr/hdc, change to colour 1, 4htr/hdc) 5 times, change to colour 2, 4htr/hdc, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st htr/hdc of the round. Change to colour 1.

Round 11: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 4htr/hdc (change to colour 2, 4htr/hdc, change to colour 1, 4htr/hdc) 5 times, change to colour 2, 4htr/hdc, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st htr/hdc of the round.

Round 12: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 4htr/hdc (change to colour 3, 4htr/hdc, change to colour 2, 4htr/hdc) 5 times, change to colour 3, 4htr/hdc, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st htr/hdc of the round. Change to colour 2.

Round 13: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 4htr/hdc (change to colour 3, 4htr/hdc, change to colour 2, 4htr/hdc) 5 times, change to colour 3, 4htr/hdc, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st htr/hdc of the round. Change to colour 1.

Round 14: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 4htr/hdc (change to colour 2, 4htr/hdc, change to colour 1, 4htr/hdc) 5 times, change to colour 2, 4htr/hdc, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st htr/hdc of the round. Change to colour 1.

Round 15: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 4htr/hdc (change to colour 2, 4htr/hdc, change to colour 1, 4htr/hdc) 5 times, change to colour 2, 4htr/hdc, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st htr/hdc of the round. Change to colour 1.

Round 16: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (10sc, sc2tog) 4 times, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st sc of the round (44).

Round 17: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc into the same sc, sc around, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st sc of the round.

Round 18: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (5sc, sc2tog) 6 times, 2sc, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st sc of the round (38).

Round 19: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (2sc, sc2tog) 9 times, 2sc, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st sc of the round (29).

Round 20: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (2sc, sc2tog) 7 times, sc, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st sc of the round (22).

Round 21: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (2sc, sc2tog) 5 times, 2sc, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st sc of the round (17).

Round 22: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (2sc, sc2tog) 4 times, sc, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st sc of the round (13).

Round 23: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (2sc, sc2tog) 3 times, sc, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st sc of the round (10).

Round 24: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) (sc2tog) 5 times, skip ss and ch and ss into 1st sc of the round (10).

Fasten off, weave through the 5 last stitches and pull tight to close the gap.  Fasten off.

  • Attach the pom pom to the top of the the hat by sewing up from the hat through the pom pom and then back down through the pom pom into the top of the hat.

Winter Accessory Makes Continue: Crochet Plaid/Interlocking Block Stitch Hat With Pom Pom Pattern

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Following on from my crochet block stitch ear warmer I am continuing with the winter accessory theme, I really like the effect the plaid/interlocking blocking stitch gives and thought it would look really good as a hat so decided to make a plaid effect hat with pom pom detail.

The wool I used was already in my stash (love a project which can use up some of my leftover wool).

The grey: DK wool, no idea where I got this one from, I normally keep them with the labels but for some reason this one seems to have lost its one!.

The green: DK wool, Stylecraft Special DK in Spearmint (1842) – I love this colour, I definitely need to order some more.

The blue: DK wool, Stylecraft Special DK in Aster (1003).



Crochet Plaid/Interlocking Block Stitch Hat Pattern:

Materials:

  • 4mm crochet hook.
  • Scissors.
  • Darning needle.
  • Wool: 3 colours. I used grey (colour 1), blue (colour 2) and spearmint (colour 3).
  • Pom pom maker – 7cm (or two pieces of card with 7cm diameters).



Notes:

  • Change colour on last yo of previous stitch.



Plaid Hat Pattern:

4mm hook, colour 1.



Ribbed section:

ch9, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc along rest of row.

Rows 1-105: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along the row in back loops only.



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Main hat:

Row 1: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 105sc along the top of the ribbed section, placing an sc into the end of each row.

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Row 2: ch3 (counts as a stitch) 2tr/dc, (ch3, skip 3, 3tr/dc) 17 times. Change to colour 2.

Row 3: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc, ch3, skip 2, (3tr/dc – one into each stitch two rows below, ch3, skip 3) 16 times, 3tr/dc – one into each stitch two rows below, ch3, skip 2, sc into top of ch3 from row below. Change to colour 3.

Row 4: ch3 (counts as a stitch) 2tr/dc – one into each tr/dc two rows below, (ch3, skip 3, 3tr/dc – one into each tr/dc two rows below) 16 times, ch3, skip 3, 2tr/dc – one into each tr/dc 2 rows below, tr/dc into final sc. Change to colour 1.

Row 5: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc, ch3, skip 2, (3tr/dc – one into each tr/dc two rows below, ch3, skip 3) 16 times, 3tr/dc – one into each tr/dc two rows below, ch3, skip 2, sc into top of the ch3 from the row below. Change to colour 2.

Row 6: repeat row 4, change to colour 3.

Row 7: repeat row 5, change to colour 1.

Row 8: repeat row 4, change to colour 2.

Row 9: repeat row 5, change to colour 3.

Row 10: repeat row 4, change to colour 1.

Row 11: repeat row 5, change to colour 2.

Row 12: repeat row 4, change to colour 3.

Row 13: repeat row 5, change to colour 1.

Row 14: repeat row 4, change to colour 2.

Row 15: repeat row 5, change to colour 3.

Row 16: repeat row 4, change to colour 1.

Row 17: repeat row 5, change to colour 2.

Row 18: repeat row 4, change to colour 3.

Row 19: repeat row 5, change to colour 1.

Row 20: repeat row 4, change to colour 2.

Row 21: repeat row 5, change to colour 3.

Row 22: repeat row 4, change to colour 1.

Row 23: repeat row 5, change to colour 2.

Row 24: repeat row 4, change to colour 3.

Row 25: repeat row 5, change to colour 1.

Row 26: repeat row 4, change to colour 2.

Row 27: repeat row 5, change to colour 3.

Row 28: repeat row 4, change to colour 1.

Row 29: repeat row 5, change to colour 2.

Row 30: repeat row 4, change to colour 3.

Fasten off.

  • Fasten off all loose ends.
  • Fold hat in half with right sides together and slip stitch down the side to join.
  • Turn out the right way.
  • Sew around the top edge of the hat weaving in and out of the middle tr/dc in each set of 3 on the 2nd row down from the top.
  • Pull tight and sew to secure (make sure the top of the hat is tucked inwards).
  • Attach the pom pom to the top of the hat by casting on at the top of the hat and sewing up through the middle of the pom pom and down back to the hat until the pom pom feels secure. Fasten off.