A bright sunny day and summer is approaching a perfect day for making some juicy crochet strawberries!

No play food set can be complete without some yummy strawberries! I chose to make three different sizes and they came together in no time at all. I know these will be a big hit as they are one of the recipients favourite fruits.  
I have a few more ideas of some play food items to make, but I don’t think I will get them all made – there are just so many! 
   

 

Pattern for the strawberries 


4mm hook
Red and green wool

Medium;
In red make a magic ring, ch1
Round 1: 4dc into ring 
Round 2: *2dc into same stitch dc, repeat from * once more 
Round 3: *2dc into same stitch dc, repeat from * twice more 
Round 4-5: dc around 
Round 6: *2dc into same stitch dc, repeat from *three more times, dc
Round 7-8: dc around 
Round 9: *2dc into same stitch dc, repeat from *five more times, dc
Round 10: dc around 
Round 11: *dc2tog dc, repeat from * five more times, dc
Put in stuffing 
Round 12: *dc2tog dc, repeat from *three more times, dc
Round 13: dc2tog four times, dc
Fasten off 

Stem
Make a magic ring, ch1
Round 1: 4dc into ring 
Round 2-3: dc around
Round 4: dc htr trb htr dc into same dc, repeat around (4times) 

Fasten off, leaving long tail to attach to tomato.

Large:
In red make a magic ring, ch1
Round 1: 5dc into ring 
Round 2: dc around 
Round 3: 2dc into same stitch dc repeat three times
Round 4: dc around 
Round 5: * 2dc into same stitch dc, repeat from *3 more times, dc
Round 6: *2dc into same stitch 2dc, repeat from *3 more times, dc
Round 7: *2dc into same stitch 2dc, repeat from *4 more times, 2dc
Round 8-11: dc around
Round 9: *dc2tog 2dc, repeat from * 4 more times, dc2tog
Round 10: dc around 
Put in stuffing
Round 11: *dc2tog dc, repeat from * 4 more times, dc
Round 12: *dc2tog dc, repeat from *2more times, dc2tog 
Fasten off 
Stem 
In green:
Make a magic ring, ch1
Round 1: 4dc into ring 
Round 2-4: dc around 
Round 5: dc htr trb dtrb trb htr dc into same dc, repeat around (4 times)

Fasten off, leaving long tail to attach to tomato.
Small;
In red make a magic ring, ch1
Round 1: 5dc into ring 
Round 2: dc around 
Round 3: 2dc into same stitch dc repeat two times, 2dc into same stitch 
Round 4: dc around 
Round 5: * 2dc into same stitch dc, repeat from *3 more times
Round 6: *2dc into same stitch 2dc, repeat from *3 more times
Round 7: *2dc into same stitch 2dc, repeat from *4 more times, dc
Round 8: dc around
Round 9: *dc2tog 2dc, repeat from *four more times, dc
Put in stuffing
Round 10: *dc2tog dc, repeat from *four more times, dc
Round 11: *dc2tog dc, repeat from *2 more times, dc2tog 
Round 12: dc2tog three times 
Fasten off 

Stem
Make a magic ring, ch1
Round 1: 4dc into ring 
Round 2-3: dc around
Round 4: dc htr trb htr dc into same dc, repeat around (4times) 
Fasten off, leaving long tail to attach to tomato.






Cracking up a crochet goldfish 

I know a little one who absolutely adores goldfish crackers – I am an big fan of them too and had the idea to make a crochet goldfish cracker, but rather than just a stuffed toy I decided to make a goldfish cracker that would hold smaller goldfish crackers, perfect for a little one to play with and put them in and out of!

It has taken me quite a while to get the pattern together for this, and I have restarted more times than I would like to remember but I think I have finally cracked it! Instead of just using a dc stitch to make it, I decided (just to make it even more complicated) to use a spike stitch which I had seen in simply crochet issue 27.  This stitch would add a bit more texture to the goldfish rather than just a dc stitch. To do this stitch you do a dc stitch into the next stitch on the current row, then you do a dc stitch into the next stitch but not on the current row but on the previous row. The stitch was really easy to get the hang of, the hard part was where I was increasing and decreasing the rounds, but I think I have managed to get it all to work.  
I made 5 smaller goldfish to fit into the bigger one, any more would be a bit of a tight squeeze, but you could make as many as you wanted.  
Very happy with this one, I’m off to eat some crackers! 

Goldfish toy pattern 

Big fish
Make a magic ring, ch1
Round 1: 11dc into ring 
Round 2: 2dc into same stitch, 4dc, 2dc into same stitch, 4dc, 2dc into same stitch 
Round 3: 6dc, 2dc same stitch, 6dc, 2dc into same stitch 
Round 4: spike stitch (dc into next dc on the current row, then dc into next dc in the previous row below) 7 times, 2dc into same stitch
Round 5: spike stitch 4 times, dc then start spike stitch in same dc and complete 4 spike stitches, dc
Round 6: start spike stitch in the same dc as the final dc on previous row and complete 5 spike stitches. Complete one spike stitch into same dc (one stitch in dc and the next in the dc directly below , rather than in the next dc along as in a normal spike stitch), spike stitch 4 times 
Round 7: start in the dc stitch ending the previous round, and complete 10 spike stitches, dc
Round 8: complete one spike stitch into same dc, complete 5 spike stitches, dc then starting in this same dc stitch complete 5 spike stitches
Round 9: start in the dc stitch ending the previous round complete 7 spike stitches, complete one spike stitch in same dc, 4 spike stitches, dc
Round 10: start in dc stitch ending the previous round, complete 6 spike stitches, dc then starting in this same dc stitch complete 7 spike stitches 
Round 11: start in dc stitch ending the previous round, complete 7 spike stitches, then complete one spike stitch into same dc, 6 spike stitches, dc
Round 12: Start in dc stitch ending the previous round, 15 spike stitches, dc
Round 13: 15 spike stitches, dc
Round 14: 15 spike stitches
Round 15: start in dc stitch ending the previous round, 9 spike stitches, dc, the starting in same stitch as previous dc complete 7 spike stitches
Round 16: 11 spike stitches, then complete a spike stitch with the first dc consisting of a dc2tog, 6 spike stitches 
Round 17: 17 spike stitches 
Round 18: 16 spike stitches 
Round 19: 17 spike stitches 
Round 20: 16 spike stitches 
Round 21: 17 spike stitches 
Round 22: 16 spike stitches 
Round 23: 17 spike stitches 
Round 24: 16 spike stitches 
Round 25: dc2tog, 9 spike stitches, dc2tog, 8 spike stitches, dc2tog 
Round 26: complete the second half of a spike stitch only (dc into dc a row below), 6 spike stitches, complete a spike stitch with the first dc consisting of a dc2tog, 6 spike stitches, dc2tog
Round 26: 7 spike stitches, dc2tog, 6 spike stitches
Round 27: complete a spike stitch with the first dc consisting of a dc2tog, 5 spike stitches, complete a spike stitch with the first dc consisting of a dc2tog, 5 spike stitches
Round 28: dc2tog, 5 spike stitches, dc2tog, 5 spike stitches
Round 29: complete a spike stitch with the first dc consisting of a dc2tog, 4 spike stitches, complete a spike stitch with the first dc consisting of a dc2tog, 5 spike stitches
Round 30: 10 spike stitches, dc2tog
Round 31: 4 spike stitches, dc2tog, 5 spike stitches 
Round 32: 2dc into same stitch, 3 spike stitches, 2dc into same stitch, 5 spike stitches, 2dc into same stitch 
Round 33: 2dc into same stitch, 4 spike stitches, 2dc into same stitch twice, 5 spike stitches, 2dc into same stitch
Round 34: 2dc into same stitch twice, complete the second half of a spike stitch only, then complete 5 spike stitches, 2dc into same stitch 3 times, complete the second half of a spike stitch, then complete 6 spike stitches, 2dc into same stitch 
Round 35: 2dc into same stitch, complete a second half of a spike stitch only, then complete 5 spike stitches, dc, 5 spike stitches, 2dc into same stitch three times 
Round 36: 7 spike stitches, dc into same stitch three times, dc, one spike stitch, dc, 8 spike stitches
Round 37:  20 spike stitches
Round 38: 4 spike stitches, 7 slip stitches, 8 spike stitches, 8 slip stitches,  3 spike stitches 
Round 39:  3 spike stitches, 8 slip stitches, 7 spike stitches, 10 slip stitches, 4 spike stitches
Fasten off.

Using an orange thread sew on the mouth and eye on both the back and front.

Small fishes 
Ch6
Row 1: dc into second chain from hook, dc along row
Row 2: ch1 (does not count as a stitch), dc2tog, dc, dc2tog
Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a stitch), dc2tog,  dc
Row 4: ch1 (does not count as s stitch) 2dc
Row 5: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) 2dc into same stitch twice
Row 6: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) 2dc into same stitch, 2dc, 2dc into same stitch 
Row 7: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along row 
Row 8: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog 
Row 9: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog twice 
Row 10: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog 
Fasten off 
Complete another small fish, then do not fasten off but dc around both fish pieces, at the tail 3dc along do not dc into the chain but dc into the row below to create detail on the tail, continue as normal around the rest of the fish and fasten off.

Using orange sew in the eye and mouth detail on both the front and back.


Moving on from breakfast food play items to something a bit more adventurous 

I was looking in the supermarket the other day for some inspiration for some more play food ideas, even though I already have more than enough, but I just can’t help looking for more! Something caught my eye in the sandwich counter and I just knew I had to do it – sushi! 

I wasn’t too sure which item to start with first, do I choose what I thought would be the easiest – a basic salmon sushi maki roll! These came together very quickly and you could put in any fillings you want by just changing the colours.  So far I have done salmon, salmon and cucumber and cucumber! 




Next came a reverse maki roll (California roll) with salmon in, I did this bigger than the previous sushi rolls as these tend to have much more rice around the edges than what is in a sushi roll.  

After I had finished all these rolls I moved on to wrapped sushi, the pattern for the wrap and the rice base was the same for each and I just changed the topping items on them, I chose salmon, shrimp, and cooked egg custard.  




For my final items I choose to do a salmon roe sushi, to achieve the bumpy roe effect I used a bobble stitch on the top.  Finally a salmon wrapped maki roll, which is made in the same way as the previous maki rolls but with a few extra inside layers. 




I am so happy with these items, they look great (even better than I was expecting) and are the perfect size for little hands to play with.  The patterns were really quick to put together to, so these can be really quick and simple makes to do. 
Patterns for the sushi

4mm hook used for all items and I used bits of wool I had left in my stash


Salmon wrapped sushi roll
Starting in green for the cucumber centre:
Make a magic ring, ch1
Round 1: 5dc into ring
Round 2: 2dc into each dc 
Change to pink;
Round 3: 2dc into next stitch dc, repeat around
Change to black;
Round 4: 2dc into next stitch 2dc
Change to white; 
Round 5: 2dc into next stitch 3dc
Change to salmon pink:
Round 6: dc around into back loops only
Round 7-10: dc around 
Finish off loose ends from the salmon and white
Put stuffing into sushi 
Change to white; 
Round 11: dc2tog 3dc in back loops only, repeat around 
Change to black;
Round 12: dc2tog 2dc, repeat around 
Change to salmon pink;
Round 13: dc2tog dc, repeat around
Change to green;
Round 14: dc2tog, repeat around 
Fasten off
Fasten off all loose ends 


Salmon roe sushi
To do a bobble stitch (from Simply Crochet magazine, issue 24: *insert hook into stitch, yarn round hook and pull back through, yarn round hook and pull back through 2 loops on hook.  Repeat from *four times into the same stitch, then yarn around hook and pull through all 5 loops.  
For the salmon roe, starting in salmon pink;
ch4
Row 1: dc in second chain from hook, dc along
Row 2: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) 2dc into same stitch, bobble stitch, 2dc into same stitch 
Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) 2dc into same stitch, 3dc, 2dc into same stitch 
Row 4: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc, bobble stitch, 3dc, bobble stitch, dc
Row 5: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along
Row 6: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) 3dc, bobble stitch, 3dc
Row 7: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along
Row 8: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc, bobble stitch, 3dc, bobble stitch, dc
Row 9: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, 3dc, dc2tog
Row 10: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) 2dc, bobble stitch, 2dc
Row 11: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, dc, dc2tog 
Change to black and now starting working in rounds around the edge of the pink section.
Rounds 1-5: dc around 
Fasten off loose ends and stuff sushi
Change to salmon pink and make base;
ch4
Row 1: dc in second chain from hook, dc along
Row 2: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) 2dc into same stitch, dc, 2dc into same stitch 
Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) 2dc into same stitch, 3dc, 2dc into same stitch 
Row 4-8: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along 
Row 9: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, 3dc, dc2tog
Row 10: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along
Row 11: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, dc, dc2tog 
Fasten off, leaving long tail to sew base onto sushi
Sew on base and fasten off all loose ends 



Wrapped egg custard sushi: 
For the egg custard, start in yellow; 
Ch6
Row 1: dc in second ch from hook, dc along row
Rows 2-10: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along row 
Fasten off 
Make 2 of these 

Then to join the two pieces together, place both pieces wrong sides together and dc through both layers all the way around the edge, slip stitch into first dc and fasten off 

To make the rice base, starting in white; 
Ch7
Row 1: dc in second ch from hook, dc along rest of row
Rows 2-10: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of row 
Now working in rounds go around the edge of the rectangle to make the sides of the rice 
Rounds 1-3: dc around 
Do not fasten off, but turn so can now work back along the row on this short side, now to make a rectangular flap which will be sewn down to create the bottom. 
Rows 1-8: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) 6dc
Put stuffing into rice rectangle
Then fasten off leaving a long thread to see closed the flap
Fasten off all loose ends 

For the nori, starting in black 
Ch5
Row 1: dc in second ch from the hook, dc along rest of the row 
Rows 2-30: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of row 
Fasten off 
Fasten off all loose ends 

Place egg custard on top of the rice, the wrap the nori around both and stitch together the ends 


Wrapped shrimp 
For the shrimp, starting in salmon pink;
Ch5
Row2: dc into second stitch from hook, dc along rest of the row
Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog twice
Row 4: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc twice 
Row 5: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) 2dc into same stitch twice 
Row 6: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) 2dc into same stitch, 2dc, 2dc into same stitch 
Rows 7-10: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of the row 
Row 11: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog 
Row 12: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog twice 
Row 13: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog
Fasten off 
Make 2 of these 

Then to join the two pieces together, place both pieces wrong sides together and dc through both layers all the way around the edge, slip stitch into first dc and fasten off 

Rice and nori wrap – same as the egg custard wrap pattern 


Wrapped salmon sushi
For the salmon, starting in salmon pink;
Ch6
Row2: dc into second stitch from hook, dc along rest of the row
Row 3-11: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of the row 
Fasten off 
Make 2 of these 

Then to join the two pieces together, place both pieces wrong sides together and dc through both layers all the way around the edge, slip stitch into first dc and fasten off 
Rice and nori wrap – same as the egg custard wrap pattern 


Salmon sushi maki roll
Starting in salmon pink;
Make a magic ring, ch1
Round 1: 5dc into ring
Round 2: 2dc into each dc 
Change to white;
Round 3: 2dc into next stitch dc, repeat around
Change to black; 
Round 4: dc around in back loops only 
Finish off loose ends from the salmon and white
Round 5-10: dc around 
Put stuffing into sushi 
Change to white; 
Round 11: dc2tog dc in back loops only, repeat around 
Change to salmon pink
Round 12: dc2tog, repeat around 
Fasten off
Fasten off all loose ends 

To do a cucumber one, use green wool instead of salmon pink 


Salmon and cucumber sushi maki roll 
In salmon pink;
Make a magic ring, ch1
Round 1: 5dc into ring 
Round 2: 2dc into each stitch, repeat around – 5 times in total, for the first 2 repeats do in salmon pink, the final 3 do in green 
Change to white; 
Round 3: 2dc into next stitch dc, repeat around
Change to black; 
Round 4: dc around in back loops only 
Finish off loose ends from the salmon, green and white
Round 5-10: dc around 
Put stuffing into sushi 
Change to white; 
Round 11: dc2tog dc in back loops only, repeat around 
Change to green;
Round 12: dc2tog three times, change to salmon pink dc2tog twice
Fasten off
Fasten off all loose ends 

Inside out prawn sushi California roll 
Starting in salmon pink;
Make a magic ring, ch1
Round 1: 5dc into ring
Round 2: 2dc into each stitch, repeat around
Change to black;
Round 3: 2dc into each stitch dc, repeat around
Change to white;
Round 4: 2dc into each stitch 2dc, repeat around 
Round 5: 2dc into each stitch 3dc, repeat around 
Round 6: dc around into back loops only 
Finish off loose ends of pink, and back 
Round 7-11: dc around 
Round 12: dc2tog 3dc, repeat around into back loops only
Put stuffing into sushi 
Round 13: dc2tog 2dc, repeat around
Change to black;
Round 14: dc2tog dc, repeat around 
Change to salmon pink;
Round 15: dc2tog, repeat around
Fasten off
Fasten off all loose ends 

A couple of cheeky tomatoes to go in the mix! 

I have now completed crochet play food eggs, sausages and mushrooms. Now I have added some tomatoes to the group! I have done them in two sizes a small and a large another ensigns bit of a mix in sizes as I didn’t want them all the same! I need to have a bit of a think of what to go for next, I have a few ideas in mind but can not quite decide which to go for, I have seen some patterns for some cool looking doughnuts  so might go for those, or I might try and do some biscuits – If I have time I might do both! I think there is going to be quite a lot of food by the time I have finished!!

Tomatoes;

Small tomato pattern; 

In red:
Make a magic ring, ch1
Round 1: 5dc into ring
Round 2: 2dc into each dc
Round 3: 2dc into next stitch dc, repeat around 
Round 4: 2dc into next stitch 2dc, repeat around 
Round 5: 2dc into into next stitch 3dc, repeat around 
Round 6-8: dc around
Round 7: dc2tog 3dc, repeat around
Round 8: dc2tog 2dc, repeat around 
Round 9: dc2tog dc, repeat around
Put in stuffing and continue to stuff as you go
Round 10: dc2tog, repeat around 
Fasten off, fasten off loose ends

Stem
Make a magic ring, ch1
Round 1: 4dc into ring 
Round 2-3: dc around
Round 4: dc htr trb htr dc into same dc, repeat around (4times) 

Fasten off, leaving long tail to attach to tomato

Attach stem to tomato, fasten off all loose ends 


Large tomato;

Make a magic ring, ch1
Round 1: 5dc into ring
Round 2: 2dc into each dc
Round 3: 2dc into next stitch dc, repeat around 
Round 4: 2dc into next stitch 2dc, repeat around 
Round 5: 2dc into into next stitch 3dc, repeat around 
Round 6: 2dc into next stitch 4dc, repeat around
Round 7: 2dc into next stitch 5dc, repeat around 
Round 8-12:dc around 
Round 13: dc2tog 5dc, repeat around
Put in stuffing and continue to stuff as you go
Round 14: dc2tog 4dc, repeat around
Round 15: dc2tog 3dc, repeat around
Round 16: dc2tog 2dc, repeat around 
Round 17: dc2tog dc, repeat around
Round 18: dc2tog, repeat around 


Stem 
In green:
Make a magic ring, ch1

Round 1: 4dc into ring 
Round 2-4: dc around 
Round 5: dc htr trb dtrb trb htr dc into same dc, repeat around (4 times)

Fasten off, leaving long tail to attach to tomato

Attach stem to tomato, fasten off all loose ends 





Cute as a button…button mushroom that is!

After completing my eggs and sausages I have started on another food item to go with them – button mushrooms! Can’t have a fry up without some mushrooms with it, also mushrooms seem to sneak into most meals I make so thought they would be perfect for a child’s play food.  Both the pattern and the mushrooms themselves were really easy to make and I had them all finished in an evening.  Now to get cracking on the next food item! Think I might do some tomatoes!!
Mushrooms 

Starting in cream; 

Make a magic ring, ch1

Round 1: 5dc into ring
Round 2: 2dc into next stitch, repeat around 
Round 3: 2dc into next stitch 1dc repeat around
Round 4: dc around
Round 5: 2dc into into next stitch 2dc, repeat around 
Round 6: dc around
Round 7: dc2tog dc, repeat 4 times around, 2dc
Change to brown:
Round 8: dc around in back loops only 
Put stuffing into head of mushroom 
Round 9: dc2tog dc, repeat 4 times around, dc

Change back to cream
Round 10: dc2tog dc, repeat 3 times around, dc2tog in back loops only
Round 11-13: dc around 
Fasten off

Fasten in all loose ends 




5 fat sausages sizzling in a pan, luckily none of these will go pop or bang!

I am on a cooking theme with my crochet at he moment to get all the food items I am wanting made.  Now finished to join the eggs are two links of sausages, one with two sausages and one with three sausages. I decided to do them as links to make them a bit different and a bit easier for little hands to keep a hold of when cooking! Think I might try some mushrooms next! Beans might be a little bit too fiddly!!

I used a brown wool and a 4mm hook. 
Sausage pattern;

Make a magic ring, ch1

Round 1: 5dc into ring
Round 2: 2dc into each dc
Round 3: 2dc into next dc, dc. repeat around
Round 4-16: dc around 
Stuff sausage and continue to stuff over the last few rounds
Round 17: dc2tog, dc, repeat around
Round 18: dc2tog around 

For link join:
Round 19-20: dc around 
For a three link sausage:
Repeat rows 2-20 then repeat rows 2-18, fasten off and fasten in all loose ends 

For a two link sausage:
Repeat rows 2-18, fasten off and fasten in all loose ends 


Tap, crack, splat and sizzle….

A friend of mine has two little ones who are needing some more play food for their play kitchen, so decided I would crochet some up for them as a gift for Easter to go with their chocolate eggs, they will last a lot longer than the chocolate which will be gone in minutes!

I wasn’t too sure what to make to start, so made a list of some foods to try and have started with what thought would be the easiest to make a pattern for – a egg for frying! Or a splattered cream egg since its Easter!

I cracked two of these up in no time and had them done in one evening, I am happy they have come out so well, and am glad I choose to put a stuffed dome on for the yolk at it makes them look even more realistic!

Not too sure what I will make next..I will keep you posted as soon as I have done something else!

I used DMC Natura Just Cotton in Tournesol N16 (yellow) and Ibiza N01 (white).

Fried egg pattern;

4mm hook

In yellow;

Make a magic ring, ch1

Round 1: 6dc into ring
Round 2: 2dc into each dc
Round 3: 2dc into next stitch, 1dc
Round 4: 2dc into next stitch, 2dc
Round 5: 2dc into next stitch, 3dc

Change to white;

Round 6: dc around
Round 7: 2dc into next stitch, 4dc
Round 8: 2dc into next stitch, 5dc
Round 9: 2dc into next stitch, 6dc

Row 1: 10dc, turn
Row 2: ch1, 10dc, turn
Row 3: ch1, dc2tog 6dc dc2tog, turn
Row 4: ch1 dc2tog 4dc dc2tog, turn
Row 5: ch1 dc2tog 2dc dc2tog, turn
Row 6: ch1 dc2tog twice, turn

Ch1, 2dc, then Dc down edge of rows 1-6, 18dc, turn

IMG_4041
Picture 1: dc down edge of rows 1-6

Row 1: ch1, 16dc, turn
Row 2: ch1, dc2tog 12dc dc2tog, turn
Row 3: ch1, dc2tog 10dc dc2tog, turn
Row 4: ch1, dc2tog 8dc dc2tog, turn
Row 5: ch1, dc2tog 6dc dc2tog, turn
Row 6: ch1, dc2tog 4dc dc2tog, turn
Row 7: ch1, dc2tog, 2dc dc2tog, turn

Ch1, 4dc, then dc down edge of rows 1-7, 12dc, turn

Row 1: ch1, dc2tog 6dc, dc2tog, turn
Row 2: ch1, dc2tog 4dc, dc2tog, turn
Row 3: ch1, dc2tog 2dc, dc2tog, turn
Row 4: ch1, dc2tog twice

dc down edge of rows 1-4, 11dc, turn

Row 1: ch1, dc2tog 4dc, dc2tog
Row 2: ch1, dc2tog 2dc, dc2tog

Dc down edge of rows 1-2, this takes you back to the start of the egg edge waves.

Dc around the whole of the edge of the egg, slip stitch into dc at the start.
Fasten off

Fasten off all loose ends </em>

IMG_4042

For yolk dome:
In yellow make a magic ring, ch1

Round 1: 6dc into ring
Round 2: 2dc into each dc
Round 3: 2dc into each dc
Round 4: dc around
Round 5: dc around
Round 6: dc around
Fasten off, leaving long tail to attach to egg base

Place stuffing into yolk dome, then sew onto the egg base in the same location as the yolk area crocheted previously. Fasten off all loose ends.

Finished!!

IMG_4043

IMG_4045

Another make is taking flight from its cosy (over full) basket, completed using the largest pattern I have created myself to date! Swooping out we have Owen the owl storage basket!

I’ve seen a lot crochet storage baskets recently, and knew one would be perfect for my mum for Mother’s Day to keep all her spare wool in (I think she has even more than me!). I came across a fox basket on Pinterest (https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/247275835764293017/) and thought it looked really good, and I decided I needed to make an animal theme one in an animal she liked. We both have a thing for owls so I knew straight away that’s what I needed to make. I also decided not to look for a pattern but to make one myself as I knew what I wanted the owl to look like, and haven’t made a pattern up for a big item before so I was looking forward to the challenge. Also making it up from scratch would make the final result much more personal for my gift.

After a few re-starts, unravels, shouts and moments of relief I have finally got both the pattern and basket finished!! I am beyond happy with this make, it has turned out just as I had wanted it to, I was worried half way through that to wouldn’t come Together and I had taken on too much of a challenge but I got there!! I am really looking forward to passing this Gift over, I think she is going to really like it! Now I know I can put a pattern together myself with a good outcome – there’s no stopping me!!

IMG_4018 IMG_4014

Owl storage basket pattern;

This pattern works in rounds and starts with the base, goes up the sides of the basket working in the face area and ears, other details are added afterward using a surface chain stitch as a base.

Colour of wool used; Dark brown, brown/white stripe wool, cream, yellow, black

Hook; 5.5 mm

Basket Base;

Make a Magic ring, ch1

Round 1: 6dc into ring

Round 2: 2dc into each dc (12dc)

Round 3: 2dc into next stitch, dc. Repeat around (18dc)

Round 4: 2dc into next stitch, 2dc. Repeat around (24dc)

Round 5: 2dc into next stitch, 3dc. Repeat around (30dc)

Round 6: 2dc into next stitch, 4dc. Repeat around (36dc)

Round 7: 2dc into next stitch, 5dc. Repeat around (42dc)

Round 8: 2dc into next stitch, 6dc. Repeat around (48dc)

Round 9: 2dc into next stitch, 7dc. Repeat around (54dc)

Round 10: 2dc into next stitch, 8dc. Repeat around (60dc)

Round 11: 2dc into next stitch, 9dc. Repeat around (66dc)

Round 12: 2dc into next stitch,10 dc. Repeat around (72dc)

Round 13: 2dc into next stitch, 11dc. Repeat around (78dc)

Round 14: 2dc into next stitch, 12dc. Repeat around (84dc)

Round 15: 2dc into next stitch, 13dc. Repeat around (90dc)

Round 16: 2dc into next stitch, 14dc. Repeat around (96dc)

Round 17: 2dc into next stitch, 15dc. Repeat around (102dc)

Round 18: 2dc into next stitch, 16dc. Repeat around (108dc)

Round 19: 2dc into next stitch, 17dc. Repeat around (114dc)

Round 20: 2dc into next stitch, 18dc. Repeat around (120dc)

Base has now been made, now the sides will be worked up in rounds;

Change to striped brown,

Round 1: dc around base in back loop only, all way around

Round 2-4: dc around

Round 5: dc2tog, 18dc. Repeat around (114dc)

Round 6: dc2tog, 17dc. Repeat around (108dc)

Round 7-23: dc around

Inclusion of face area – Notes before starting face area; Cast on white, but do not fasten off brown. Then while completing the next round white section sew in the loose striped brown wool thread as you go along (picture 1). Then after completing the white section on the round do not fasten off, leave the thread loose until completing the round in striped brown, then pull it back to the start of the next white section on starting the next round, making sure you start to sew the wool into the brown dc stitch before starting the white wool section (picture 2) and sew in the loose thread as you go along the line again along with the loose striped brown wool (picture 3). Do this on each row so no loose wool threads are visible on the inside.

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Picture 1: Sewing in the striped brown wool in the white face section

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Picture 2: Sewing in the previous rounds white thread, with it pulled back to the start of the white face section

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Picture 3: Sewing in the striped brown and white wool (from the previous round) into the white face section

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Picture 4: A few rows completed on the face section, showing all loose wool from colour changes is hidden in the face section

Round 24-28: In white, 30dc. dc rest of the round in striped brown

Round 29: dc in striped brown, 28dc in white. dc around rest of round in striped brown

Round 30: 2dc in striped brown, 25dc in white. dc around rest of the round in striped brown

Round 31: 3dc in striped brown, 23dc in white. dc around rest of the round in striped brown

Round 32: 3dc in striped brown, 8dc in white, 3dc in striped brown, 9dc in white. dc rest of the round in striped brown

Round 33: 4dc in striped brown, 7dc in white, 5dc in striped brown, 7dc in white. dc rest of the round in striped brown

Round 34: 5dc in striped brown, 5dc in white, 6dc in striped brown, 5dc in white. dc rest of the round in striped brown

Round 35: 6dc in striped brown, 3dc in white, 9dc in striped brown, 3dc in white. dc rest of the round in striped brown

Round 36: 7dc in striped brown, 1dc in white, 11dc in striped brown, 1dc in white, dc rest of the round in striped brown. Cut white wool, leaving thread to sew in and finish off

Round 37-38: dc in striped brown all round. Do not fasten off

Ears;

Continuing in striped brown; 2dc in brown, *dc, htrb (half treble), 4trb, dtrb (double treble), ttrb (triple treble) into next dc, ch3, then slip stitch into 1st ch, ttrb, dtrb, 4trb, htrb, dc into next dc* 18dc, repeat from *to* dc in next dc. Fasten off

Black detail around eyes;

Created using surface slip stitching – start in the bottom right corner of the white section, hook through work (back through to front) (picture 5) then pull black wool back through. Insert hook back into next stitch and back through to the front, wool around hook pull back through wool around hook and pull through all loops on hook = 1dc stitch, complete surface dc stitches the whole way around the edge of the white areas, slip stitch into first dc, fasten off

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Picture 5: Hook through work from back through to front

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Picture 6: Finished surface stitching

Eyes – make 2;

Starting in black, create magic ring, Ch1

Round 1: 5dc into ring

Round 2: 2dc into each dc (10dc) Change to yellow

Round 3: 2trb into next stitch, 1trb, repeat around (15trb)

Round 4: 2dc into each stitch around, slip stitch into first dc, fasten off leaving long tail to attach

Ruffled feathers effect on the front chest;

To get this ruffled feather effect on the front I used crocodile stitch;

First make the foundation chain for the crocodile stitch;

In dark brown Surface stitch a row of 14dc stitches starting 4 rows down and 8dc along from the bottom of the white face area, work from right to left (picture7)

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Picture 7: Creating a row of surface stitches

Row 1: ch4, trb into dc surface stitch at base of ch, *Skip 2dc, trb ch1 trb into same dc (post v created), repeat from * along row (5 sets of v posts created)(picture 8). Fasten off

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Picture 8: First and second v post created

Row 2: Starting at base of the first post of the first v made cast on, ch3, then 4trb up the post (picture 9), ch1, 5trb down the next post (picture 10), skip next v *5trb up the post, ch1 then 5trb down the second post in the v, skip next v, repeat from * along row. Fasten off

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Picture 9: Starting at the base of the v posts, and working trebles up the first v post

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Picture 10: After ch1, working trebles down the next post in the v

Row 3: Cast on in striped brown in the v post chain space (picture 11), ch4 trb, trb ch1 1trb in the next fan chain space, trb ch1 trb in the next v post chain space (3 sets of v posts created) (picture 12). Fasten off

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Picture 11: First set of v posts created using the striped brown row in the chain space of the previous row set of v posts

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Picture 12: 3 sets of v posts created

Row 4: Fasten on at the base of the first v post ch3, then 4trb up the post, ch1, 5trb down the next post, skip next v, 5trb ch1 5trb in the next v post, slip stitch into next fan ch space. Fasten off

Make a new foundation base for next double row of crocodile stitches in dark brown; Start 2 dc in from the edge of and 11 rows down from the white face area, surface stitch 26dc (picture 13).

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Picture 13: Starting the next row of surface stitches for the next set of ruffles

Row 1: ch4, trb into first stitch of surface chain, *skip 2dc, trb ch1 trb into next stitch, repeat from * along row (9 sets of v posts created). Fasten off

Row 2: Starting at base of the first post of the v made, cast on at base, ch 3, then 4trb up the post, ch1, 5trb down the next post, skip next v *5trb up the post, ch1 then 5trb down the second post in the v, skip next v, repeat from * along row. Fasten off at end

Row 3: Cast on in striped brown in the v post chain space ch4 1trb *trb ch1 trb in the next fan chain space, trb ch1 trb in the next v post chain space repeat from * to end of row (7 sets of v posts created). Fasten off

Row 4: Fasten on at the base of the first v post ch3, then 4trb up the post, ch1, 5trb down the next post, *skip next v post, 5trb ch1 5trb in the next v post, repeat from * to end of row, slip stitch into fan chain space in previous row. Fasten off

One last row of crocodile stitches; In dark brown, first create surface chain 6 rows down from previous foundation surface chain, starting and ending at same point (26dc) as the previous foundation chain.

Row 1: ch4 trb into first stitch of surface chain, *skip 2dc, trb ch1 trb into next stitch, repeat from * along row. Fasten off

Row 2: Starting at base of the first post of the v made, cast on at base, ch 3, then 4trb up the post, ch1, 5trb down the next post, skip next v *5trb up the post, ch1 then 5trb down the second post in the v, skip next v, repeat from * along row (9 sets of v posts made in total). Fasten off at end. Feather ruffles are finished.

Feet;

Counting 5dc to the left of the first dc of the dark brown surface stitch, and working into the base edge of the owl cast on in yellow wool (picture 14).

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Picture 14: Starting off the feet, casting on ready to do 6dc

Row 1: 6dc

Row 2-3: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) 6dc

Row 4: ch3, trb into stitch at base of chain, ch3 dc into next stitch. *ch3 trb into next stitch, ch3 dc into next stitch. Repeat from *once more. Fasten off

Repeat rows 1-4 for second foot, start second foot 6dc along from the first foot.

Dc in black around the edge of each foot, fastening off between each foot. At each toe gap (the dc between the two ch3) dc the black into the same dc stitch as the yellow wool to define the claws more.

Wings;

Surface stitch in the dark brown a row 12dc long, starting 6dc around from the edge of the first row of the white face area.

Row 1-7: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of the row

Row 8: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, 8dc, dc2tog

Row 9: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog,6dc, dc2tog

Row 10-12: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of the row

Row 13: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, 4dc, dc2tog

Row 14: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of the row

Row 15: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog

Row 16: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of the row

Row 17: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog twice

Row 18: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of the row

Row 19: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog Fasten off (picture 15)

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Picture 15: Completed wing

Repeat for the second Wing on the other side, again starting a row of 12 surface dc, 6dc around from the edge of the first row of the white face.

Beak;

Surface stitch a row of 6 Starting 2rows up and 2dc to the right of the black surface stitch in the centre dip of the White face area (picture 16).

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Picture 16: Starting the beak surface stitch row

Row 1-2: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along row 

Row 3: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, 2dc,dc2tog

Row 4: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog twice

Row 5: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog Fasten off

Attach the eyes and beak to the face Fasten off all loose ends…….all finished!!!!

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