Crochet

Crochet Mini Sidney The Giant Squid Pattern

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A while back I made a crochet giant squid pattern – Sidney the giant squid it was great fun to make and have always had it in mind to make a smaller version but have been too busy with other projects to get one made.

I have now had a chance to get a mini Sidney made and he is quite a bit smaller than the original measuring in at 50cm long (from top to bottom of the longest legs) and 18cm at its widest point, so if the original Sidney was a bit too big then here is a much smaller option.

I also wanted to make a mini version of Oscar the crochet octopus so keep an eye out for a mini Oscar over the next few weeks!

Mini Crochet Sidney The Giant Squid Pattern

Materials:

  • 50g ball of DK wool in pink (or any other colour you would your squid to be).
  • 10g ball of DK wool in white.
  • 10g ball of DK wool in black.
  • 4.5mm crochet hook.
  • Stitch marker.
  • Darning needle.
  • Toy stuffing.

Mini Crochet Sidney The Squid:

Squid Body:

4.5mm hook, pink wool:

Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch1, 4sc into ring (4).

Round 2: 2sc into each stitch (8).

Round 3: sc around.

Round 4: *2sc into next sc, sc into next stitch. Repeat from * around (12).

Rounds 5-6: sc around.

Round 7: *2sc into next sc, sc into next two stitches. Repeat from * around (16).

Round 8: sc around.

Round 9: *2sc into next sc, sc into next three stitches. Repeat from * around (20).

Round 10: sc around.

Round 11: *2sc into next sc, sc into next four stitches. Repeat from * around (24).

Round 12: sc around.

Round 13: *2sc into next sc, sc into next five stitches. Repeat from * around (28).

Round 14: sc around.

Round 15: *2sc into next sc, sc into next six stitches. Repeat from * around (32).

Round 16: *2sc into next sc, sc into next seven stitches. Repeat from * around (36).

Rounds 17-30: sc around.

Round 31: *sc2tog, sc into next seven stitches. Repeat from * around (32).

Round 32: *sc2tog, sc into next six stitches. Repeat from * around (28).

Round 33: sc around.

Round 34: *sc2tog, sc into next five stitches. Repeat from * around (24).

Round 35: sc around.

Round 36: *sc2tog, sc into next four stitches. Repeat from * around (20).

Round 37: sc around.

Round 38: *2sc into next sc, sc into next 5 stitches. repeat from * around (24).

Round 39: sc around.

Fasten off.

Squid Leg Section:

4.5mm hook, pink wool:

ch24, ss into 1st ch to form a round (ss doesn’t count as a stitch) (24).

Rounds 1-10: sc around, don’t fasten off.

Legs:

3sc, turn and ch3, ss into 1st sc on the opposite side to make a round (6).

Working on these 6sc only:

Rounds 1-23: sc around.

Round 24: sc2tog three times.

Fasten off.

  • Repeat legs section for the next 7 legs, starting each leg into the next sc from the previous leg (pull up loop, ch1, sc into the same sc.)

Long Paddle Legs – Make 2:

4.5mm hook, pink wool:

ch8, ss into 1st ch to make a round (ss doesn’t count as a stitch) (8).

Rounds 1-50: sc around.

Round 51: (2sc into next sc, sc into next 3 stitches) twice (10).

Round 52: sc around.

Round 53: (2sc into next sc, sc into next 4 stitches) twice (12).

Rounds 54-60: sc around.

Round 61: (sc2tog, sc into next two stitches) three times (9).

Round 62: (sc2tog, sc into next stitch) three times (6).

Round 63: sc2tog three times (3).

Fasten off: weave around the last 3 stitches and pull tight to close.

Long Paddle Leg Suckers – Make 6:

4.5mm hook, white wool:

ch4, ss into 1st ch from hook to make a round.

Fasten off, leaving long thread to attach.

Sew three suckers onto the bottom part of each of the long paddle arms.

Squid Head Side Pieces – Make 2:

4.5mm hook, pink wool:

Row 1: ch3, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc along rest of the row (2).

Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc, 2sc into the next sitch (3).

Row 3: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 2sc into next sc, sc into next stitch, 2sc into next sc (5).

Row 4: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row.

Row 5: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 2sc into next sc, sc into next 3 stitches, 2sc into next sc (7).

Row 6: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 2sc into next sc, sc into next 5 stitches, 2sc into next sc (9).

Row 7: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row.

Row 8: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) 2sc into next sc, sc into next 7 stitches, 2sc into next sc (11).

Rows 9-12: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row.

Row 13: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc2tog, sc into next 7 stitches, sc2tog (9).

Row 14: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row.

Row 15: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc2tog, sc into next 5 stitches, sc2tog (7).

Row 16: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row.

Row 17: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc2tog, sc into next 3 stitches, sc2tog (5).

Row 18: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row.

Row 19: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc2tog, sc into next stitch, sc2tog (3).

Rows 20-21: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row.

Row 22: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc2tog, sc into next stitch (2).

Row 23: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc2tog (1).

Fasten off.

  • Fold in half and sc along the top edge:
  • Starting in the first row end, insert hook, pull up loop, ch1, sc into same sc. Next sc along the top edge.
  • Fasten off.

Squid Eyes – Make 2:

4.5mm hook, starting in black, using 2 strands at the same time:

Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch1, 5sc into ring.

Change to 1 strand of white:

Round 2: 2sc into each stitch.

Fasten off, leaving long thread to attach.

Squid Assembly:

  • Take the two long paddle arms and place the top of them into the leg section, with the top edge of the long paddle arms aligned with the top edge of the leg section. Sew along the top edge to secure.

  • At the top of each of the legs in the leg section sew the gap closed.
  • Stuff the head section.
  • Cast on 5 rows down from the top of the leg section, then place the leg section into the head section with the bottom of the head section 1 row below where you cast on. Sew around to secure.

  • Sew the eyes onto the side of the leg section.
  • Sew the side head pieces onto each side of the head, sewing down one side of the head piece, then back up the other side.

Time To Brighten The Cold Winter Days With Some Crochet Flowers – First Up: Snowdrops

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I have had an idea in mind for some crochet mini flower themed squares that could be joined together to make cushions/blankets for a while but haven’t had a chance to get started on them. With the new year arriving along with the cold winter days I decided it was time to do something to brighten them up and finally get started on these flower squares.

I have a lot of flower ideas in mind (think I will be busy making them for a while!) and it took a bit of time to decide on which to make first, however, after a bit of thinking I decided to start with a flower often seen at this time of year – the Snowdrop.

I opted to do them in a sc stitch in a square format, and will keep all the squares the same size so then can all be joined together at a later date. The size of the square is: 16x16cm.

The pattern to make this snowdrop square is available over on Patreon as this month’s members free pattern.

Crochet Mini Christmas Present Boxes Pattern

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These little boxes are great for little presents to go in (anything to save on all the wrapping!), for hiding in a few sweets, and would also be perfect for just using as a decoration this Christmas. You can use any colours you like for these, I think they would look great in some sparkly wool – I thought I had some but wasn’t able to find it so opted for the red and green theme, I will be definitely making some sparkly ones for next year!.

Crochet mini Christmas present boxes pattern

Materials:

  • 4mm crochet hook.
  • Wool: 25g of red wool, 25g green wool.
  • Darning needle.
  • Scissors.
  • Stitch marker.

Crochet Christmas present – lid:

Using red wool:

ch13, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc along rest of the row (12).

Rows 1-11: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along the row.

Round 1: sc down the side edge (12sc – one into each row end), along the bottom edge (12sc), up the other side (12sc – one into each row end) and along the top edge (12sc)(each corner will have 2sc).

Round 2: in back loops only: sc around.

Rounds 3-4: sc around.

Fasten off.

Crochet Christmas present – main box:

Using red wool:

ch12, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc along rest of the row (11).

Rows 1-10: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along the row.

Round 1: sc down the side edge (11sc – one into each row end), along the bottom edge (11sc), up the other side (11sc – one into each row end) and along the top edge (11sc)(each corner will have 2sc).

Round 2: in back loops only: sc around.

Rounds 3-14: sc around.

Fasten off.

Crochet Christmas present – Ribbon detail:

Using green wool:

Working along the bottom edge of the present, using the remaining front loops from round 2 of the main box.

Choose one side of the box and working from the right hand side of this face, skip 4 stitches, then cast on (pull up loop, ch1 sc into same sc). sc into the next 2 stitches. Turn.

Rows 1-9: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along the row, turn.

ch1, ss into top edge of the main box (skip 4 stitches from the right), ss into the next 2 stitches.

Fasten off.

  • Repeat for the remaining 3 sides.

Crochet Christmas present – Bow:

Using green wool:

ch4, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc along rest of row.

Rows 1-70: ch1 (doesn’t count) sc along row.

Fasten off.

  • Attach bow to lid of the present.

Christmas Crochet Holly Head Band Pattern

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This holly themed quick make is perfect for wearing over the Christmas season, I’ve got a bit carried away making these and have quite a few spare ones which will be perfect for popping into peoples gifts as an extra little present.

This is a great scrap busting project – all you need is some red, brown (or any other colour you prefer for the band) and green wool.

Holly Christmas head band crochet pattern

Materials:

4mm crochet hook.

Scissors.

Darning needle.

Wool: Red, brown, and green.

Card – 1cm by 5cm.

Holly head band pattern:

To make the leaves:

In green:

ch8, sc into 2nd ch from the hook, sc along row until 1sc remains, 2sc into this final stitch. Next work along the other side of the starting ch placing an sc into each stitch – including the stitch you just placed 2sc into.

Round 1: *2ss, into next stitch: (sc, htr/hdc, ch2, ss into 2nd ch from hook, htr/hdc, sc). Repeat from * once more. 1ss, into next stitch: (sc, htr/hdc, ch2, ss into 2nd ch from hook, htr/hdc, sc), 1ss, **into next stitch: (sc, htr/hdc, ch2, ss into 2nd ch from hook, htr/hdc, sc) 2ss. Repeat from ** once more.

Fasten off, leaving long thread to attach to head band.

To make the berries:

Red wool.

Cut a 1cm wide and 5cm long piece of card, take the red wool and wrap round 20 times, carefully pull off the wool and tie around the middle to secure. Cut the top and bottom loops.

To make the Headband:

Using brown wool:

ch a length which is long enough to fit around your head and so that you can tie the two ends together.

htr/hdc into the 3rd ch from the hook and then htr/hdc along the row.

Fasten off.

Attaching the leaves and the berries:

Sew the two leaves together slightly overlapping.

Sew the berries onto the leaves.

Sew the berries and leaves onto the headband.

Crochet How To Guide: Block Stitch

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Perfect for blankets and looks great when used to make a cushion, block stitch can also be used for scarves, hats and loads more other crochet projects. You can use one colour for it all, alternate between two colours or even use a different colour every row.

I have some patterns which use this stitch including a ear warmer.

Block Stitch Tutorial:

Notes:

  • Change colour on last yo of the final stitch of the row.

Starting row:

For the first row you need to ch the length of stitches you require, and as the block stitch works in blocks of 3 you need to make sure your starting ch length is dividable by 3. Once you have your ch length add on 2 extra stitches (this creates the first stitch of the row).

For example: if your starting ch was 18ch stitches long, add an extra 2stitches to make 20ch stitches in total.

Row 1: sc into 2nd ch from hook, *ch2, skip 2, sc into next stitch. Repeat from * along row.

Main rows:

Row 2: ch4 (counts as a tr/dc stitch and a ch1), 3tr/dc into ch2 gap, *ch1, 3tr/dc into ch2 gap. Repeat from * along row until final sc remains, ch1, tr/dc into final sc.

Row 3: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc into top of tr/dc, sc into ch1 gap, *ch2, sc into ch1 gap. Repeat from *along row, until 1sc remains (this will be the 3rd ch from the ch4 at the start of the previous row) sc into this final stitch.

  • Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you reach the size required.
  • Fasten off and finish off all loose ends.

Crochet How To Guide: Interlocking Block Stitch/ Plaid Stitch

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Interlocking block stitch/Plaid stitch is a great stitch to use for blankets, cushions and hats/scarves – you can use as many or as few colours as you wish and come up with some really cool patterns.

I have some patterns which use this stitch including a Plaid effect hat with pom pom and Plaid effect fingerless gloves.

Interlocking block stitch/plaid stitch tutorial:

Notes:

  • Change colour on the last yo of the final stitch of the row.

Starting row:

For the first row you need to ch the length of stitches you require, and as the interlocking block/plaid stitch works in 2 blocks of 3 you need to make sure your starting ch length is dividable by 6. Once you have your ch length add on 5 extra stitches (this will create the first tr/dc stitch of the row, and a block of 3tr/dc to make sure you end the row on a set of 3tr/dc).

For example: if your starting ch was 30ch stitches long, add an extra 5 stitches to make 35ch stitches in total.

Row 1: tr/dc into the 3rd ch from the hook, this gives you the first tr/dc of the row using the extra 2ch stitches added at the start. Next tr/dc into the next 2 stitches, giving you your first block of 3. *ch3, skip 3 stitches, then tr/dc into the next 3 stitches. Repeat from *along the row.

Main Rows:

Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc, ch3, skip 2, 3tr/dc – one into each stitch two rows below *ch3, skip 3, 3tr/dc – one into each stitch two rows below. Repeat from * along row, until 3 stitches remain (the 2tr/dc and ch3 at start of previous row), ch3, skip 2, sc into top of ch3 at start of previous row.

Row 3: ch3 (counts as a stitch) 2tr/dc – one into each stitch two rows below, ch3, skip 3, *3tr/dc – one into each stitch two rows below, ch3, skip 3. Repeat from * along row, until 3 stitches remain, 2tr/dc – one into each stitch two rows below, tr/dc into final stitch (sc from start of previous row).

  • Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you reach the size of blanket you require.
  • Fasten off, Fasten off all loose ends.