Mini Oscar The Octopus Crochet Pattern

After making my giant Oscar the crochet octopus I always had it in mind that I would also make a mini version, its taken a while to get him made but finally following on from my mini Sidney the crochet squid I have got my mini Oscar the octopus completed!.

I also have a Giant squid pattern available too.

I opted to make my mini Oscar the octopus in a purple, but you could make him in any colour you like, use a colour changing yarn (like the original Oscar the octopus) or even use multiple colours and make this a scrap busting project.

Mini Oscar The Octopus Crochet Pattern

Materials

  • 2 x 100g ball of DK wool in your chosen colour/colours.
  • 1 x 25g ball white wool.
  • 1 x 25g ball black wool.
  • Toy stuffing.
  • 4.5mm crochet hook.
  • Scissors.
  • Stitch Marker.
  • Darning needle.

Main body:

Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch1, 4sc into ring.

Round 2: 2sc into each stitch (8).

Round 3: *2sc into next sc, sc into next stitch. Repeat from * around (12).

Round 4: *2sc into next sc, sc into next two stitches. Repeat from * around (16).

Round 5: sc around.

Round 6: *2sc into next sc, sc into next three stitches. Repeat from * around (20).

Round 7: *2sc into next sc, sc into next four stitches. Repeat from * around (24).

Round 8: sc around.

Round 9: 6sc, (2sc into next sc, sc into next two stitches) six times (30).

Rounds 10-11: sc around.

Round 12: *2sc into next sc, sc into next five stitches. Repeat from * around (35).

Round 13: *2sc into next sc, sc into next six stitches. Repeat from * around (40).

Round 14: *2sc into next sc, sc into next seven stitches. Repeat from * around (45).

Round 15: sc around.

Round 16: 13sc, (2sc into next sc, sc into next three stitches) eight times (53)

Rounds 17-19: sc around.

Round 20: (sc2tog, sc into next seven stitches) five times, sc2tog, 6sc (47).

Rounds 21-23: sc around.

Round 24: 12sc, (sc2tog, sc into next three stitches) seven times (40).

Rounds 25-28: sc around.

Round 29: *sc2tog, sc into next six stitches. Repeat from *around (35).

Round 30: sc around.

Round 31: *sc2tog, sc into next five stitches. Repeat from *around (30).

Round 32: sc around.

Round 33: 10sc, turn leaving the remaining stitches unworked.

Row 1: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc2tog, 6sc, sc2tog (8).

Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row.

Row 3: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc2tog, 4sc, sc2tog (6).

Row 4: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc along row.

Next, sc down the side (into the row ends) (5 sc), sc around (20sc) and up the other side (5sc). Don’t sc along the top edge. Don’t fasten off.

Leg 1:

Stuff legs as you go.

Continuing from row 4 of the body, 2sc into the next 3 stitches, ch4, ss into 1st sc, making a round of 10sc (10sc).

Rounds 1-32: sc around.

Round 33: (sc2tog, sc into next 3 stitches) twice (8).

Round 34: (sc2tog, sc into next 2 stitches) twice (6).

Round 35: (sc2tog, sc into next stitch) twice (3).

Round 36: sc2tog, sc into next stitch (2).

Fasten off.

Leg 2:

Fasten on into stitch to the left of leg 1.

Repeat rows 1-36 of Leg 1.

Fasten off.

Legs 3-8:

Skip 1 stitch after the previous leg, fasten on into the next stitch.

2sc into the next 4 stitches, ch2, ss into stitch at the start making a round fo 10sc (10sc).

Repeat rows 1-36 of leg 1.

Fasten off.

Base infill piece:

Make a magic ring, ch1, 6sc into ring.

Round 1: 2sc into each sc (12).

Round 2: 2sc into next sc, sc into next stitch (18).

Round 3: 2sc into next sc, sc into next two stitches (24).

Round 4: 2sc into next sc, sc into next three stitches (30).

Round 5: 2sc into next sc, sc into next four stitches (36).

Round 6: 8sc, turn leaving remmaing stitches unworked (8).

Row 1: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc2tog, 4sc, sc2tog (6sc).

Fasten off.

Eyes – Make 2:

Make a magic ring, ch1, 5sc into ring.

Round 1: 2sc into each sc (10).

Fasten off.

Eyelids – Make 2:

ch8, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc along row (7).

Row 1: ch1 (doesn’t count as a stitch) sc2tog, 3sc, sc2tog.

Fasten off.

  • Sew closed tops of tentacles.
  • Stuff main body and sew on the base infill piece.
  • Sew eyes onto the main body.
  • Sew pupils onto the eyes.
  • Sew on eyelids along the top edge of the eyes.
  • Sew circles in white onto the tentacles for the suckers.

Quick Sewing Project: Sewing A Fabric Drawstring Gift Bag

I had a gift ready to be gifted and had it mind to make a fabric drawstring bag to pop it in before gifting, but then the problems started….. I forgot about the making part until the day before I needed to pass the gift over!

Slight panic stations occurred and I rapidly looked through my fabric stash to see if I had anything suitable. I’ve been on a bit of a fabric scraps use up mission lately so wanted to try and keep this going and luckily I had some fabric pieces that were perfect.

This fabric was from the Craft Cotton Company’s London Town fat quarter set which was gifted by The Craft Cotton Company.

Tutorial to make the bag

  • For the front and back of the bag you will need two pieces of fabric that measure 26x30cm. They can be made up from patchwork pieces or be a single piece.
  • For the top drawstring parts of the bag you need two pieces of fabric 28×10. This gives you a front and back piece.
  • Take the two top drawstring parts of the bag and fold in the edges by 1cm and then fold in half (wrong sides together) so you have two pieces 26x5cm.
  • Take one of the top drawstring parts of the bag and the front piece of the bag and place right sides together with the top raw edge of the front piece and the bottom raw edge of the drawstring part aligned. Sew along the top edge to secure. Repeat with the remaining top drawstring part and back piece of the bag.
  • Take the front and back piece and place right sides together, sew down both the sides starting 3cm from the top edge and sewing diagonally inwards for 1cm and then down the rest of the side. Sew along the bottom edge. Turn out the right way.
  • Take a piece of ribbon 50cm long and thread through the top drawstring part of the bag, tie the two ends together to secure.

Minecraft Crochet Block Series: Part 1 – TNT Block Pattern

Time to get building….building some Minecraft blocks that is!

Its been a little while since I have managed to get some Minecraft makes finished and I have decided its time to get cracking with them! So over the next few weeks a few new Minecraft themed makes will be popping out on to here all themed around the different Minecraft blocks. These makes will consist of Minecraft cubes measuring 17x17x17cm. I cant wait to have a few of these made as they will all be able to stack together so you can actually build something out of them!.

I opted for corner to corner crochet for these as its perfect for giving the block effect of a Minecraft block and also I love using corner to corner crochet on projects!

I used a foam padding piece to fill these – using one large piece and cutting into 17x17cm squares and stacking them together. You could also use a 17x17x17cm cube of foam if you can find one, or even just fill them with toy stuffing.

I started making these at first and realised they were going to be too big so to make them smaller and the 17cm size instead of using trb(UK)/dc(US) stitches I changed them to htr(UK)/hdc(US). This also means at the start of each row instead of ch6 and trb(UK)/dc(US) into the 4th ch from the hook, you only need to ch5 and then htr(UK)/hdc(US) into the 3rd ch from the hook. Also instead of ch3 at the start of each square you only need to ch2. How to on using a htr(UK)/hdc(US) for corner to corner crochet can be found over on this ‘how to’ guide.

Also instead of using a 4mm hook as I normally would I opted for used a smaller 3.5mm hook.

If you do want a bigger block complete hook up a size, to go smaller hook down a size.

Previous Crochet Corner To Corner Minecraft Block Makes include:

Emerald Ore Block, Magma Block, Chest Block, Redstone Ore Block, Diamond Ore Block, Pumpkin Head.

Minecraft Crochet Corner To Corner TNT Block Pattern:

  • Size: 17x17cm.
  • DK Wool.

Make the 6 sides using the patterns below and sew the pieces together around the foam piece down the side edges. If using stuffing sew all the pieces together but leave a 10cm gap for putting in the stuffing and then sew the gap closed.