Crochet Goldfish Cracker Toy Pattern  

I know a little one who absolutely adores goldfish crackers – I am an big fan of them too and had the idea to make a crochet goldfish cracker, but rather than just a stuffed toy I decided to make a goldfish cracker that would hold smaller goldfish crackers, perfect for a little one to play with and put them in and out of!  

It has taken me quite a while to get the pattern together for this, and I have restarted more times than I would like to remember but I think I have finally cracked it! Instead of just using a dc stitch to make it, I decided (just to make it even more complicated) to use a spike stitch which I had seen in simply crochet issue 27.  This stitch would add a bit more texture to the goldfish rather than just a dc stitch. To do this stitch you do a dc stitch into the next stitch on the current row, then you do a dc stitch into the next stitch but not on the current row but on the previous row. The stitch was really easy to get the hang of, the hard part was where I was increasing and decreasing the rounds, but I think I have managed to get it all to work.    

I made 5 smaller goldfish to fit into the bigger one, any more would be a bit of a tight squeeze, but you could make as many as you wanted.     Very happy with this one, I’m off to eat some crackers! 

Crochet Goldfish Crackers pattern:

Materials:

  • 4mm hook.
  • Yellow and orange wool.

Big Goldfish:

In Yellow:

Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch1, 11sc into ring. 

Round 2: 2sc into same stitch, 4sc, 2sc into same stitch, 4sc, 2sc into same stitch. 

Round 3: 6sc, 2sc same stitch, 6sc, 2sc into same stitch.

Round 4: spike stitch (sc into next sc on the current row, then sc into next sc in the previous row below) 7 times, 2sc into same stitch.

Round 5: spike stitch 4 times, sc then start spike stitch in same sc and complete 4 spike stitches, sc.

Round 6: start spike stitch in the same sc as the final sc on previous row and complete 5 spike stitches. Complete one spike stitch into same sc (one stitch in sc and the next in the sc directly below , rather than in the next sc along as in a normal spike stitch), spike stitch 4 times. 

Round 7: start in the sc stitch ending the previous round, and complete 10 spike stitches, sc.

Round 8: complete one spike stitch into same sc, complete 5 spike stitches, sc then starting in this same sc stitch complete 5 spike stitches.

Round 9: start in the sc stitch ending the previous round complete 7 spike stitches, complete one spike stitch in same sc, 4 spike stitches, sc.

Round 10: start in sc stitch ending the previous round, complete 6 spike stitches, sc then starting in this same sc stitch complete 7 spike stitches. 

Round 11: start in sc stitch ending the previous round, complete 7 spike stitches, then complete one spike stitch into same sc, 6 spike stitches, sc.

Round 12: Start in sc stitch ending the previous round, 15 spike stitches, sc.

Round 13: 15 spike stitches, sc.

Round 14: 15 spike stitches.

Round 15: start in sc stitch ending the previous round, 9 spike stitches, sc, the starting in same stitch as previous sc complete 7 spike stitches.

Round 16: 11 spike stitches, then complete a spike stitch with the first sc consisting of a sc2tog, 6 spike stitches. 

Round 17: 17 spike stitches. 

Round 18: 16 spike stitches. 

Round 19: 17 spike stitches. 

Round 20: 16 spike stitches.

Round 21: 17 spike stitches.

Round 22: 16 spike stitches.

Round 23: 17 spike stitches.

Round 24: 16 spike stitches.

Round 25: sc2tog, 9 spike stitches, sc2tog, 8 spike stitches, sc2tog.

Round 26: complete the second half of a spike stitch only (sc into sc a row below), 6 spike stitches, complete a spike stitch with the first sc consisting of a sc2tog, 6 spike stitches, sc2tog.

Round 26: 7 spike stitches, sc2tog, 6 spike stitches.

Round 27: complete a spike stitch with the first sc consisting of a sc2tog, 5 spike stitches, complete a spike stitch with the first sc consisting of a sc2tog, 5 spike stitches.

Round 28: sc2tog, 5 spike stitches, sc2tog, 5 spike stitches.

Round 29: complete a spike stitch with the first sc consisting of a sc2tog, 4 spike stitches, complete a spike stitch with the first sc consisting of a sc2tog, 5 spike stitches.

Round 30: 10 spike stitches, sc2tog.

Round 31: 4 spike stitches, sc2tog, 5 spike stitches. 

Round 32: 2sc into same stitch, 3 spike stitches, 2sc into same stitch, 5 spike stitches, 2sc into same stitch.

Round 33: 2sc into same stitch, 4 spike stitches, 2sc into same stitch twice, 5 spike stitches, 2sc into same stitch.

Round 34: 2sc into same stitch twice, complete the second half of a spike stitch only, then complete 5 spike stitches, 2sc into same stitch 3 times, complete the second half of a spike stitch, then complete 6 spike stitches, 2sc into same stitch.

Round 35: 2sc into same stitch, complete a second half of a spike stitch only, then complete 5 spike stitches, sc, 5 spike stitches, 2sc into same stitch three times.

Round 36: 7 spike stitches, sc into same stitch three times, sc, one spike stitch, sc, 8 spike stitches.

Round 37:  20 spike stitches.

Round 38: 4 spike stitches, 7 slip stitches, 8 spike stitches, 8 slip stitches,  3 spike stitches.

Round 39:  3 spike stitches, 8 slip stitches, 7 spike stitches, 10 slip stitches, 4 spike stitches.

Fasten off.

Using an orange thread sew on the mouth and eye on both the back and front.

Small Fishes:

In yellow:

Ch6.

Row 1: sc into second chain from hook, sc along row.

Row 2: ch1 (does not count as a stitch), sc2tog, sc, sc2tog.

Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a stitch), sc2tog,  sc.

Row 4: ch1 (does not count as s stitch) 2sc.

Row 5: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) 2sc into same stitch twice.

Row 6: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) 2sc into same stitch, 2sc, 2sc into same stitch.

Row 7: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc along row.

Row 8: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc2tog, 2sc, sc2tog.

Row 9: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc2tog twice.

Row 10: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc2tog. 

Fasten off. 

Complete another small fish, then do not fasten off but sc around both fish pieces, at the tail 3sc along do not sc into the chain but sc into the row below to create detail on the tail, continue as normal around the rest of the fish and fasten off.

Using orange sew in the eye and mouth detail on both the front and back.

Card Making: Pink And Pretty Butterfly Cards

In the July 2014 docrafts goody bag as well as the botanicals range I used previously were also some other items from the docrafts Papermania Capsule collection wild rose and Tilly Daydream range.    From these I used:

  • Capsule Collection 12″x12″ paper pack in wild rose.
  • Capsule Collection big bloomers in wild rose.
  • Capsule Collection polka dot buttons in wild rose.
  • Tilly Daydream ric rac in natural.

Butterfly punch used:

  • Super lever butterfly punch by Woodware (punched butterfly is: 5cm/2″ in size).

I love the 3D effect of these cards with the butterflies coming out – I only stuck the middle body section of the butterfly to the card so that the wings would flap outwards.

Crochet ‘Owen The Owl’ Owl Storage Basket Pattern – Great For Storing Wool/Projects In

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I’ve seen a lot crochet storage baskets recently, and knew one would be perfect for my mum for Mother’s Day to keep all her spare wool in (I think she has even more than me!). I came across a fox basket on Pinterest (https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/247275835764293017/) and thought it looked really good, and I decided I needed to make an animal theme one in an animal she liked. We both have a thing for owls so I knew straight away that’s what I needed to make. I also decided not to look for a pattern but to make one myself as I knew what I wanted the owl to look like, and haven’t made a pattern up for a big item before so I was looking forward to the challenge. Also making it up from scratch would make the final result much more personal for my gift.

After a few re-starts, unravels, shouts and moments of relief I have finally got both the pattern and basket finished!! I am beyond happy with this make, it has turned out just as I had wanted it to, I was worried half way through that to wouldn’t come Together and I had taken on too much of a challenge but I got there!! I am really looking forward to passing this Gift over, I think she is going to really like it! Now I know I can put a pattern together myself with a good outcome – there’s no stopping me!!

Crochet owl storage basket pattern:

This pattern works in rounds and starts with the base, goes up the sides of the basket working in the face area and ears, other details are added afterward using a surface chain stitch as a base.

Materials:

  • 5.5mm hook.
  • Wool in dark brown, light brown, cream, yellow, black.

Main basket:

In light brown.

Round 1: make a magic ring, ch1, 6sc into ring.

Round 2: 2sc into each sc (12sc).

Round 3: 2sc into next stitch, sc. Repeat around (18sc.)

Round 4: 2sc into next stitch, 2sc. Repeat around (24sc).

Round 5: 2sc into next stitch, 3sc. Repeat around (30sc).

Round 6: 2sc into next stitch, 4sc. Repeat around (36sc).

Round 7: 2sc into next stitch, 5sc. Repeat around (42sc).

Round 8: 2sc into next stitch, 6sc. Repeat around (48sc).

Round 9: 2sc into next stitch, 7sc. Repeat around (54sc).

Round 10: 2sc into next stitch, 8sc. Repeat around (60sc).

Round 11: 2sc into next stitch, 9sc. Repeat around (66sc).

Round 12: 2sc into next stitch, 10sc. Repeat around (72sc).

Round 13: 2sc into next stitch, 11sc. Repeat around (78sc).

Round 14: 2sc into next stitch, 12sc. Repeat around (84sc).

Round 15: 2sc into next stitch, 13sc. Repeat around (90sc).

Round 16: 2sc into next stitch, 14sc. Repeat around (96sc).

Round 17: 2sc into next stitch, 15sc. Repeat around (102sc).

Round 18: 2sc into next stitch, 16sc. Repeat around (108sc).

Round 19: 2sc into next stitch, 17sc. Repeat around (114sc).

Round 20: 2sc into next stitch, 18sc. Repeat around (120sc).

Now the sides will be worked up in rounds:

Round 1: sc around base in back loops only.

Round 2-4: sc around.

Round 5: sc2tog, 18sc. Repeat around (114sc).

Round 6: sc2tog, 17sc. Repeat around (108sc).

Round 7-23: sc around.

Face area:

Cast on in cream, but do not fasten off brown. Then while completing the next round cream section sew in the loose light brown wool thread as you go along. Then after completing the cream section on the round do not fasten off, leave the thread loose until completing the round in light brown, then pull it back to the start of the next cream section on starting the next round, making sure you start to sew the wool into the light brown sc stitch before starting the cream wool section and sew in the loose thread as you go along the line again along with the loose light brown wool. Do this on each row so no loose wool threads are visible on the inside.

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Sewing in the light brown wool in the white face section

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Sewing in the previous rounds cream thread, with it pulled back to the start of the cream face section
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Sewing in the light brown and cream wool (from the previous round) into the cream face section.
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A few rows completed on the face section, showing all loose wool from colour changes is hidden in the face section.

Round 24-28: In cream, 30sc. sc rest of the round in light brown.

Round 29: sc in light brown, 28sc in cream. sc around rest of round in light brown.

Round 30: 2sc in light brown, 25sc in cream. sc around rest of the round in light brown.

Round 31: 3sc in light brown, 23sc in cream. sc around rest of the round in striped brown.

Round 32: 3sc in light brown, 8sc in cream, 3sc in light brown, 9sc in cream. sc rest of the round in light brown.

Round 33: 4sc in light brown, 7sc in cream, 5sc in light brown, 7sc in cream. sc rest of the round in light brown.

Round 34: 5sc in light brown, 5sc in cream, 6sc in light brown, 5sc in cream. sc rest of the round in light brown.

Round 35: 6sc in light brown, 3sc in cream, 9sc in light brown, 3sc in cream. sc rest of the round in light brown.

Round 36: 7sc in light brown, 1sc in cream, 11sc in light brown, 1sc in cream, sc rest of the round in light brown. Cut cream wool, leaving thread to sew in and finish off.

Round 37-38: sc in light brown all round. Do not fasten off.

Ears:

Continuing in light brown; 2sc in dark brown, *into next stitch: sc, htr(UK)/hdc(US), 4tr(UK)/dc(US), double treble(UK)/treble(US), triple treble(UK)/double treble(US), ch3, then slip stitch into 1st ch, triple trble(UK)/double trble(US), double treble(UK)/treble(US), 4tr(UK)/dc(US), htr(UK)/hdc(US), sc into next sc* 18sc, repeat from *to*, sc in next sc. Fasten off.

Black detail around eyes:

Created using surface slip stitching – start in the bottom right corner of the white section, hook through work (back through to front) then pull black wool back through. Insert hook back into next stitch and back through to the front, wool around hook pull back through wool around hook and pull through all loops on hook = 1sc stitch, complete surface sc stitches the whole way around the edge of the white areas, slip stitch into first sc, fasten off.

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Eyes – make 2:

Starting in black:

Round 1: create magic ring, ch1, 5sc into ring.

Round 2: 2sc into each sc (10sc).

Change to yellow:

Round 3: 2tr(UK)/dc(US) into next stitch, 1tr(UK)/dc(US), repeat around (15tr(UK)/dc(US)).

Round 4: 2sc into each stitch around, slip stitch into first sc, fasten off leaving long tail to attach.

Ruffled feathers effect on the front chest:

To get this ruffled feather effect on the front I used crocodile stitch.

First make the foundation chain for the crocodile stitch:

In dark brown:

Surface stitch a row of 14sc stitches starting 4 rows down and 8sc along from the bottom of the cream face area, work from right to left.

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Row 1: ch4, tr(UK)/dc(US) into surface stitch at base of ch, *Skip 2sc, tr(UK)/dc(US), ch1, tr(UK)/dc(US) into same sc (post v created), repeat from * along row (5 sets of v posts created).

Fasten off.

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Row 2: Starting at base of the first post of the first v made cast on, ch3, then 4tr(UK)/dc(US) up the post, ch1, 5tr(UK)/dc(US) down the next post, skip next v *5tr(UK)/dc(US) up the post, ch1 then 5tr(UK)/dc(US) down the second post in the v, skip next v, repeat from * along row.

Fasten off.

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Starting at the base of the v posts, and working trebles up the first v post.
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After ch1, working trebles down the next post in the v.

Row 3: Cast on in light brown in the v post chain space, ch4, tr(UK)/dc(US), tr(UK)/dc(US), ch1, 1tr(UK)/dc(US) in the next fan chain space, tr(UK)/dc(US), ch1, tr(UK)/dc(US) in the next v post chain space (3 sets of v posts created). Fasten off.

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First set of v posts created using the striped brown row in the chain space of the previous row set of v posts.
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3 sets of v posts created.

Row 4: Fasten on at the base of the first v post ch3, then 4tr(UK)/dc(US) up the post, ch1, 5tr(UK)/dc(US) down the next post, skip next v, 5tr(UK)/dc(US), ch1, 5tr(UK)/dc(US) in the next v post, slip stitch into next fan ch space. Fasten off.

Make a new foundation base for next double row of crocodile stitches in dark brown; Start 2 sc in from the edge of and 11 rows down from the white face area, surface stitch 26sc.

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Row 1: ch4, tr(UK)/dc(US) into first stitch of surface chain, *skip 2sc, tr(UK)/dc(US), ch1, tr(UK)/dc(US) into next stitch, repeat from * along row (9 sets of v posts created). Fasten off.

Row 2: Starting at base of the first post of the v made, cast on at base, ch3, then 4tr(UK)/dc(US) up the post, ch1, 5tr(UK)/dc(US) down the next post, skip next v *5tr(UK)/dc(US) up the post, ch1 then 5tr(UK)/dc(US) down the second post in the v, skip next v, repeat from * along row. Fasten off at end.

Row 3: Cast on in striped brown in the v post chain space ch4 1tr(UK)/dc(US) *tr(UK)/dc(US), ch1, tr(UK)/dc(US) in the next fan chain space, tr(UK)/dc(US), ch1, tr(UK)/dc(US) in the next v post chain space repeat from * to end of row (7 sets of v posts created). Fasten off.

Row 4: Fasten on at the base of the first v post ch3, then 4tr(UK)/dc(US) up the post, ch1, 5tr(UK)/dc(US) down the next post, *skip next v post, 5tr(UK)/dc(US), ch1, 5tr(UK)/dc(US) in the next v post, repeat from * to end of row, slip stitch into fan chain space in previous row. Fasten off.

One last row of crocodile stitches; In dark brown, first create surface chain 6 rows down from previous foundation surface chain, starting and ending at same point (26sc) as the previous foundation chain.

Row 1: ch4 tr(UK)/dc(US) into first stitch of surface chain, *skip 2sc, tr(UK)/dc(US), ch1, tr(UK)/dc(US) into next stitch, repeat from * along row. Fasten off.

Row 2: Starting at base of the first post of the v made, cast on at base, ch3, then 4tr(UK)/dc(US) up the post, ch1, 5tr(UK)/dc(US) down the next post, skip next v *5tr(UK)/dc(US) up the post, ch1 then 5tr(UK)/dc(US) down the second post in the v, skip next v, repeat from * along row (9 sets of v posts made in total). Fasten off at end. Feather ruffles are finished.

Feet:

Counting 5sc to the left of the first sc of the dark brown surface stitch, and working into the base edge of the owl cast on in yellow wool.

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Row 1: 6sc.

Row 2-3: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) 6sc.

Row 4: ch3, tr(UK)/dc(US) into stitch at base of chain, ch3, sc into next stitch. *ch3, tr(UK)/dc(US) into next stitch, ch3, sc into next stitch. Repeat from *once more. Fasten off.

Repeat rows 1-4 for second foot, start second foot 6sc along from the first foot.

sc in black around the edge of each foot, fastening off between each foot. At each toe gap (the sc between the two ch3) sc the black into the same sc stitch as the yellow wool to define the claws more.

Wings:

Surface stitch in the dark brown a row 12sc long, starting 6sc around from the edge of the first row of the white face area.

Row 1-7: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc along rest of the row.

Row 8: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc2tog, 8sc, sc2tog.

Row 9: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc2tog, 6sc, sc2tog.

Row 10-12: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc along rest of the row.

Row 13: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc2tog, 4sc, sc2tog.

Row 14: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc along rest of the row.

Row 15: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc2tog, 2sc, sc2tog.

Row 16: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc along rest of the row.

Row 17: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc2tog twice.

Row 18: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc along rest of the row.

Row 19: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc2tog. Fasten off.

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Repeat for the second Wing on the other side, again starting a row of 12 surface sc, 6sc around from the edge of the first row of the white face.

Beak:

Surface stitch a row of 6 Starting 2rows up and 2sc to the right of the black surface stitch in the centre dip of the cream face area.

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Row 1-2: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) sc along row. 

Row 3: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) sc2tog, 2sc, sc2tog.

Row 4: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) sc2tog twice.

Row 5: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) sc2tog. Fasten off

Attach the eyes and beak to the face Fasten off all loose ends…….all finished!!!!

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Crochet Bird Potholder – Perfect Make For Easter

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It’s a busy time of year for me again at the moment for making gifts, first there is Mother’s Day, closely followed by Easter both of which I have a number of projects to make for! Not that I am complaining about having things to make – I love making gifts, my main concern is whether I will get them all finished in time! Also I have a number of projects I am itching to get started on and to complete for myself, but these will just have to wait for now!

I have been busy this week working on both my Mother’s Day present and Easter one, and have just got the Easter one finished first……

Cheeping happily out of the craft basket is a very cute bird potholder! I came across this pot holder in Simply Crochet magazine issue 28 and just had to make it for Easter! I had some cotton in different shades of blue left over from another project which I knew would be perfect, along with some leftover cotton in Orange and yellow so set about making it. I was really surprised how quickly it came together – I had it finished in an evening! I love a quick make – especially when I have so many others I want to get done!

This cherpy little make is brilliant, it makes me smile when I look at it, and it is going to make a perfect present for Easter, I like giving something crafty to keep along with a chocolate egg so that the recipient can use it for the next Easter too, it means it’s around for a lot longer than any of the chocolate! I liked it so much – I made another one for myself!

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Last Project For Christmas Finished With Perfect Timing! Introducing 2 Cute Crochet Dinosaurs!

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When I saw the pattern for these dinosaurs in a craft shop I just had to make them – I know a little one who absolutley loves dinosaurs so knew they would be perfect! The pattern was a DMC amigurumi pattern (number 14889L/2) And I used DMC Natura Just Cotton in Prussian N64 (bright blue) Passion N23 (orangey red), Tournesol N16 (yellow), Pistache N13 (green), Ibiza N01 (white), light green N12, and Noir N11 (black) to make them. I chose to make one with scales and one with spots, I really liked the stripy one too so I will make that one another time, I ran out of time to make all three!.

The pattern was really simple to follow and the dinosaurs came together in no time, the longest time taken was putting them together and making sure all the spikes and arms were in the right place! I think they look great, I will be sad to see them go but I know they are going to someone who will be over the moon when they open them, I will just have to make myself some more!

So glad I managed to get everything ready in time for Christmas – just! I look forward to a short break from everything crafty and will be enjoying lots of mince pies! Although I have a mountain of projects to get started on for myself including a new patchwork quilt, a crochet blanket and to finish my half started granny square blanket – so I won’t be taking too long a break!

Merry Christmas everyone!

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Crochet Mouse Doorstop: Squeak Squeak…

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I have wanted a doorstop for my hall for a while and had not found the time to find a pattern I liked or get round to making it. Luckily, this weekend I managed to find some time to do one, so I set about looking for a pattern and came across one for a small mouse online from lion brand that I really liked. The pattern is freely available, but you do have to register with them to be able to access it. The good thing is there are thousands of other free patterns which they have available also.

It was perfect as it wasn’t too big and I had some left over wool in my stash that was perfect for it… The wool I had was a dark brown colour.

It didn’t take long to make at all as the body is one whole continuous piece and all that needs attaching are the ears and nose. I chose not to use the safety eyes that were suggested but instead sewed some on. I used sand in a sealed bag as the weight inside. Also, I decided to add some pink into the ears as once I’d finished the mouse; it looked like it needed something extra. To do this I chose light pink wool and completed the pattern provided below:

Magic ring ch1,

Row 1: 5sc into ring (5sc).

Row 2: 2sc into each stitch (10sc).

Row 3: 2sc into next stitch, 1sc. Repeat 5 times (15sc).

Row 4: 1sc in each stitch (15sc).

Fasten off, and attach to the inside of the ears.

Once I had added this detail I was very happy and I think it really finished it off. It looks great sat in my hall, and even better, it is stopping the door from continually closing itself and driving us mad!