Crochet Goldfish Cracker Toy Pattern  

I know a little one who absolutely adores goldfish crackers – I am an big fan of them too and had the idea to make a crochet goldfish cracker, but rather than just a stuffed toy I decided to make a goldfish cracker that would hold smaller goldfish crackers, perfect for a little one to play with and put them in and out of!  

It has taken me quite a while to get the pattern together for this, and I have restarted more times than I would like to remember but I think I have finally cracked it! Instead of just using a dc stitch to make it, I decided (just to make it even more complicated) to use a spike stitch which I had seen in simply crochet issue 27.  This stitch would add a bit more texture to the goldfish rather than just a dc stitch. To do this stitch you do a dc stitch into the next stitch on the current row, then you do a dc stitch into the next stitch but not on the current row but on the previous row. The stitch was really easy to get the hang of, the hard part was where I was increasing and decreasing the rounds, but I think I have managed to get it all to work.    

I made 5 smaller goldfish to fit into the bigger one, any more would be a bit of a tight squeeze, but you could make as many as you wanted.     Very happy with this one, I’m off to eat some crackers! 

Crochet Goldfish Crackers pattern:

Materials:

  • 4mm hook.
  • Yellow and orange wool.

Big Goldfish:

In Yellow:

Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch1, 11sc into ring. 

Round 2: 2sc into same stitch, 4sc, 2sc into same stitch, 4sc, 2sc into same stitch. 

Round 3: 6sc, 2sc same stitch, 6sc, 2sc into same stitch.

Round 4: spike stitch (sc into next sc on the current row, then sc into next sc in the previous row below) 7 times, 2sc into same stitch.

Round 5: spike stitch 4 times, sc then start spike stitch in same sc and complete 4 spike stitches, sc.

Round 6: start spike stitch in the same sc as the final sc on previous row and complete 5 spike stitches. Complete one spike stitch into same sc (one stitch in sc and the next in the sc directly below , rather than in the next sc along as in a normal spike stitch), spike stitch 4 times. 

Round 7: start in the sc stitch ending the previous round, and complete 10 spike stitches, sc.

Round 8: complete one spike stitch into same sc, complete 5 spike stitches, sc then starting in this same sc stitch complete 5 spike stitches.

Round 9: start in the sc stitch ending the previous round complete 7 spike stitches, complete one spike stitch in same sc, 4 spike stitches, sc.

Round 10: start in sc stitch ending the previous round, complete 6 spike stitches, sc then starting in this same sc stitch complete 7 spike stitches. 

Round 11: start in sc stitch ending the previous round, complete 7 spike stitches, then complete one spike stitch into same sc, 6 spike stitches, sc.

Round 12: Start in sc stitch ending the previous round, 15 spike stitches, sc.

Round 13: 15 spike stitches, sc.

Round 14: 15 spike stitches.

Round 15: start in sc stitch ending the previous round, 9 spike stitches, sc, the starting in same stitch as previous sc complete 7 spike stitches.

Round 16: 11 spike stitches, then complete a spike stitch with the first sc consisting of a sc2tog, 6 spike stitches. 

Round 17: 17 spike stitches. 

Round 18: 16 spike stitches. 

Round 19: 17 spike stitches. 

Round 20: 16 spike stitches.

Round 21: 17 spike stitches.

Round 22: 16 spike stitches.

Round 23: 17 spike stitches.

Round 24: 16 spike stitches.

Round 25: sc2tog, 9 spike stitches, sc2tog, 8 spike stitches, sc2tog.

Round 26: complete the second half of a spike stitch only (sc into sc a row below), 6 spike stitches, complete a spike stitch with the first sc consisting of a sc2tog, 6 spike stitches, sc2tog.

Round 26: 7 spike stitches, sc2tog, 6 spike stitches.

Round 27: complete a spike stitch with the first sc consisting of a sc2tog, 5 spike stitches, complete a spike stitch with the first sc consisting of a sc2tog, 5 spike stitches.

Round 28: sc2tog, 5 spike stitches, sc2tog, 5 spike stitches.

Round 29: complete a spike stitch with the first sc consisting of a sc2tog, 4 spike stitches, complete a spike stitch with the first sc consisting of a sc2tog, 5 spike stitches.

Round 30: 10 spike stitches, sc2tog.

Round 31: 4 spike stitches, sc2tog, 5 spike stitches. 

Round 32: 2sc into same stitch, 3 spike stitches, 2sc into same stitch, 5 spike stitches, 2sc into same stitch.

Round 33: 2sc into same stitch, 4 spike stitches, 2sc into same stitch twice, 5 spike stitches, 2sc into same stitch.

Round 34: 2sc into same stitch twice, complete the second half of a spike stitch only, then complete 5 spike stitches, 2sc into same stitch 3 times, complete the second half of a spike stitch, then complete 6 spike stitches, 2sc into same stitch.

Round 35: 2sc into same stitch, complete a second half of a spike stitch only, then complete 5 spike stitches, sc, 5 spike stitches, 2sc into same stitch three times.

Round 36: 7 spike stitches, sc into same stitch three times, sc, one spike stitch, sc, 8 spike stitches.

Round 37:  20 spike stitches.

Round 38: 4 spike stitches, 7 slip stitches, 8 spike stitches, 8 slip stitches,  3 spike stitches.

Round 39:  3 spike stitches, 8 slip stitches, 7 spike stitches, 10 slip stitches, 4 spike stitches.

Fasten off.

Using an orange thread sew on the mouth and eye on both the back and front.

Small Fishes:

In yellow:

Ch6.

Row 1: sc into second chain from hook, sc along row.

Row 2: ch1 (does not count as a stitch), sc2tog, sc, sc2tog.

Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a stitch), sc2tog,  sc.

Row 4: ch1 (does not count as s stitch) 2sc.

Row 5: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) 2sc into same stitch twice.

Row 6: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) 2sc into same stitch, 2sc, 2sc into same stitch.

Row 7: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc along row.

Row 8: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc2tog, 2sc, sc2tog.

Row 9: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc2tog twice.

Row 10: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) sc2tog. 

Fasten off. 

Complete another small fish, then do not fasten off but sc around both fish pieces, at the tail 3sc along do not sc into the chain but sc into the row below to create detail on the tail, continue as normal around the rest of the fish and fasten off.

Using orange sew in the eye and mouth detail on both the front and back.

Flying gracefully into the made box are some pink and pretty butterfly cards

In the July 2014 docrafts goody bag as well as the botanicals range I used previously were also some other items from the docrafts Papermania Capsule collection wild rose and Tilly Daydream range. 
From these I used;
– Capsule Collection 12″x12″ paper pack in wild rose 
– Capsule Collection big bloomers in wild rose
– Capsule Collection polka dot buttons in wild rose
– Tilly Daydream ric rac in natural 
Butterfly punch used;
– Super lever butterfly punch by Woodware (punched butterfly is: 5cm/2″ in size) 
I love the 3D effect of these cards with the butterflies coming out – I only stuck the middle body section of the butterfly to the card so that the wings would flap outwards.  




Another make is taking flight from its cosy (over full) basket, completed using the largest pattern I have created myself to date! Swooping out we have Owen the owl storage basket!

I’ve seen a lot crochet storage baskets recently, and knew one would be perfect for my mum for Mother’s Day to keep all her spare wool in (I think she has even more than me!). I came across a fox basket on Pinterest (https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/247275835764293017/) and thought it looked really good, and I decided I needed to make an animal theme one in an animal she liked. We both have a thing for owls so I knew straight away that’s what I needed to make. I also decided not to look for a pattern but to make one myself as I knew what I wanted the owl to look like, and haven’t made a pattern up for a big item before so I was looking forward to the challenge. Also making it up from scratch would make the final result much more personal for my gift.

After a few re-starts, unravels, shouts and moments of relief I have finally got both the pattern and basket finished!! I am beyond happy with this make, it has turned out just as I had wanted it to, I was worried half way through that to wouldn’t come Together and I had taken on too much of a challenge but I got there!! I am really looking forward to passing this Gift over, I think she is going to really like it! Now I know I can put a pattern together myself with a good outcome – there’s no stopping me!!

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Owl storage basket pattern;

This pattern works in rounds and starts with the base, goes up the sides of the basket working in the face area and ears, other details are added afterward using a surface chain stitch as a base.

Colour of wool used; Dark brown, brown/white stripe wool, cream, yellow, black

Hook; 5.5 mm

Basket Base;

Make a Magic ring, ch1

Round 1: 6dc into ring

Round 2: 2dc into each dc (12dc)

Round 3: 2dc into next stitch, dc. Repeat around (18dc)

Round 4: 2dc into next stitch, 2dc. Repeat around (24dc)

Round 5: 2dc into next stitch, 3dc. Repeat around (30dc)

Round 6: 2dc into next stitch, 4dc. Repeat around (36dc)

Round 7: 2dc into next stitch, 5dc. Repeat around (42dc)

Round 8: 2dc into next stitch, 6dc. Repeat around (48dc)

Round 9: 2dc into next stitch, 7dc. Repeat around (54dc)

Round 10: 2dc into next stitch, 8dc. Repeat around (60dc)

Round 11: 2dc into next stitch, 9dc. Repeat around (66dc)

Round 12: 2dc into next stitch,10 dc. Repeat around (72dc)

Round 13: 2dc into next stitch, 11dc. Repeat around (78dc)

Round 14: 2dc into next stitch, 12dc. Repeat around (84dc)

Round 15: 2dc into next stitch, 13dc. Repeat around (90dc)

Round 16: 2dc into next stitch, 14dc. Repeat around (96dc)

Round 17: 2dc into next stitch, 15dc. Repeat around (102dc)

Round 18: 2dc into next stitch, 16dc. Repeat around (108dc)

Round 19: 2dc into next stitch, 17dc. Repeat around (114dc)

Round 20: 2dc into next stitch, 18dc. Repeat around (120dc)

Base has now been made, now the sides will be worked up in rounds;

Change to striped brown,

Round 1: dc around base in back loop only, all way around

Round 2-4: dc around

Round 5: dc2tog, 18dc. Repeat around (114dc)

Round 6: dc2tog, 17dc. Repeat around (108dc)

Round 7-23: dc around

Inclusion of face area – Notes before starting face area; Cast on white, but do not fasten off brown. Then while completing the next round white section sew in the loose striped brown wool thread as you go along (picture 1). Then after completing the white section on the round do not fasten off, leave the thread loose until completing the round in striped brown, then pull it back to the start of the next white section on starting the next round, making sure you start to sew the wool into the brown dc stitch before starting the white wool section (picture 2) and sew in the loose thread as you go along the line again along with the loose striped brown wool (picture 3). Do this on each row so no loose wool threads are visible on the inside.

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Picture 1: Sewing in the striped brown wool in the white face section

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Picture 2: Sewing in the previous rounds white thread, with it pulled back to the start of the white face section

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Picture 3: Sewing in the striped brown and white wool (from the previous round) into the white face section

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Picture 4: A few rows completed on the face section, showing all loose wool from colour changes is hidden in the face section

Round 24-28: In white, 30dc. dc rest of the round in striped brown

Round 29: dc in striped brown, 28dc in white. dc around rest of round in striped brown

Round 30: 2dc in striped brown, 25dc in white. dc around rest of the round in striped brown

Round 31: 3dc in striped brown, 23dc in white. dc around rest of the round in striped brown

Round 32: 3dc in striped brown, 8dc in white, 3dc in striped brown, 9dc in white. dc rest of the round in striped brown

Round 33: 4dc in striped brown, 7dc in white, 5dc in striped brown, 7dc in white. dc rest of the round in striped brown

Round 34: 5dc in striped brown, 5dc in white, 6dc in striped brown, 5dc in white. dc rest of the round in striped brown

Round 35: 6dc in striped brown, 3dc in white, 9dc in striped brown, 3dc in white. dc rest of the round in striped brown

Round 36: 7dc in striped brown, 1dc in white, 11dc in striped brown, 1dc in white, dc rest of the round in striped brown. Cut white wool, leaving thread to sew in and finish off

Round 37-38: dc in striped brown all round. Do not fasten off

Ears;

Continuing in striped brown; 2dc in brown, *dc, htrb (half treble), 4trb, dtrb (double treble), ttrb (triple treble) into next dc, ch3, then slip stitch into 1st ch, ttrb, dtrb, 4trb, htrb, dc into next dc* 18dc, repeat from *to* dc in next dc. Fasten off

Black detail around eyes;

Created using surface slip stitching – start in the bottom right corner of the white section, hook through work (back through to front) (picture 5) then pull black wool back through. Insert hook back into next stitch and back through to the front, wool around hook pull back through wool around hook and pull through all loops on hook = 1dc stitch, complete surface dc stitches the whole way around the edge of the white areas, slip stitch into first dc, fasten off

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Picture 5: Hook through work from back through to front

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Picture 6: Finished surface stitching

Eyes – make 2;

Starting in black, create magic ring, Ch1

Round 1: 5dc into ring

Round 2: 2dc into each dc (10dc) Change to yellow

Round 3: 2trb into next stitch, 1trb, repeat around (15trb)

Round 4: 2dc into each stitch around, slip stitch into first dc, fasten off leaving long tail to attach

Ruffled feathers effect on the front chest;

To get this ruffled feather effect on the front I used crocodile stitch;

First make the foundation chain for the crocodile stitch;

In dark brown Surface stitch a row of 14dc stitches starting 4 rows down and 8dc along from the bottom of the white face area, work from right to left (picture7)

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Picture 7: Creating a row of surface stitches

Row 1: ch4, trb into dc surface stitch at base of ch, *Skip 2dc, trb ch1 trb into same dc (post v created), repeat from * along row (5 sets of v posts created)(picture 8). Fasten off

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Picture 8: First and second v post created

Row 2: Starting at base of the first post of the first v made cast on, ch3, then 4trb up the post (picture 9), ch1, 5trb down the next post (picture 10), skip next v *5trb up the post, ch1 then 5trb down the second post in the v, skip next v, repeat from * along row. Fasten off

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Picture 9: Starting at the base of the v posts, and working trebles up the first v post

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Picture 10: After ch1, working trebles down the next post in the v

Row 3: Cast on in striped brown in the v post chain space (picture 11), ch4 trb, trb ch1 1trb in the next fan chain space, trb ch1 trb in the next v post chain space (3 sets of v posts created) (picture 12). Fasten off

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Picture 11: First set of v posts created using the striped brown row in the chain space of the previous row set of v posts

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Picture 12: 3 sets of v posts created

Row 4: Fasten on at the base of the first v post ch3, then 4trb up the post, ch1, 5trb down the next post, skip next v, 5trb ch1 5trb in the next v post, slip stitch into next fan ch space. Fasten off

Make a new foundation base for next double row of crocodile stitches in dark brown; Start 2 dc in from the edge of and 11 rows down from the white face area, surface stitch 26dc (picture 13).

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Picture 13: Starting the next row of surface stitches for the next set of ruffles

Row 1: ch4, trb into first stitch of surface chain, *skip 2dc, trb ch1 trb into next stitch, repeat from * along row (9 sets of v posts created). Fasten off

Row 2: Starting at base of the first post of the v made, cast on at base, ch 3, then 4trb up the post, ch1, 5trb down the next post, skip next v *5trb up the post, ch1 then 5trb down the second post in the v, skip next v, repeat from * along row. Fasten off at end

Row 3: Cast on in striped brown in the v post chain space ch4 1trb *trb ch1 trb in the next fan chain space, trb ch1 trb in the next v post chain space repeat from * to end of row (7 sets of v posts created). Fasten off

Row 4: Fasten on at the base of the first v post ch3, then 4trb up the post, ch1, 5trb down the next post, *skip next v post, 5trb ch1 5trb in the next v post, repeat from * to end of row, slip stitch into fan chain space in previous row. Fasten off

One last row of crocodile stitches; In dark brown, first create surface chain 6 rows down from previous foundation surface chain, starting and ending at same point (26dc) as the previous foundation chain.

Row 1: ch4 trb into first stitch of surface chain, *skip 2dc, trb ch1 trb into next stitch, repeat from * along row. Fasten off

Row 2: Starting at base of the first post of the v made, cast on at base, ch 3, then 4trb up the post, ch1, 5trb down the next post, skip next v *5trb up the post, ch1 then 5trb down the second post in the v, skip next v, repeat from * along row (9 sets of v posts made in total). Fasten off at end. Feather ruffles are finished.

Feet;

Counting 5dc to the left of the first dc of the dark brown surface stitch, and working into the base edge of the owl cast on in yellow wool (picture 14).

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Picture 14: Starting off the feet, casting on ready to do 6dc

Row 1: 6dc

Row 2-3: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) 6dc

Row 4: ch3, trb into stitch at base of chain, ch3 dc into next stitch. *ch3 trb into next stitch, ch3 dc into next stitch. Repeat from *once more. Fasten off

Repeat rows 1-4 for second foot, start second foot 6dc along from the first foot.

Dc in black around the edge of each foot, fastening off between each foot. At each toe gap (the dc between the two ch3) dc the black into the same dc stitch as the yellow wool to define the claws more.

Wings;

Surface stitch in the dark brown a row 12dc long, starting 6dc around from the edge of the first row of the white face area.

Row 1-7: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of the row

Row 8: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, 8dc, dc2tog

Row 9: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog,6dc, dc2tog

Row 10-12: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of the row

Row 13: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, 4dc, dc2tog

Row 14: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of the row

Row 15: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog

Row 16: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of the row

Row 17: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog twice

Row 18: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of the row

Row 19: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog Fasten off (picture 15)

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Picture 15: Completed wing

Repeat for the second Wing on the other side, again starting a row of 12 surface dc, 6dc around from the edge of the first row of the white face.

Beak;

Surface stitch a row of 6 Starting 2rows up and 2dc to the right of the black surface stitch in the centre dip of the White face area (picture 16).

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Picture 16: Starting the beak surface stitch row

Row 1-2: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along row 

Row 3: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, 2dc,dc2tog

Row 4: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog twice

Row 5: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog Fasten off

Attach the eyes and beak to the face Fasten off all loose ends…….all finished!!!!

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Projects everywhere! It’s getting a bit busy in this craft basket, I need to get a bigger one (any excuse), luckily one project is flying the nest!

It’s a busy time of year for me again at the moment for making gifts, first there is Mother’s Day, closely followed by Easter both of which I have a number of projects to make for! Not that I am complaining about having things to make – I love making gifts, my main concern is whether I will get them all finished in time! Also I have a number of projects I am itching to get started on and to complete for myself, but these will just have to wait for now!

I have been busy this week working on both my Mother’s Day present and Easter one, and have just got the Easter one finished first……

Cheeping happily out of the craft basket is a very cute bird potholder! I came across this pot holder in Simply Crochet magazine issue 28 and just had to make it for Easter! I had some cotton in different shades of blue left over from another project which I knew would be perfect, along with some leftover cotton in Orange and yellow so set about making it. I was really surprised how quickly it came together – I had it finished in an evening! I love a quick make – especially when I have so many others I want to get done!

This cherpy little make is brilliant, it makes me smile when I look at it, and it is going to make a perfect present for Easter, I like giving something crafty to keep along with a chocolate egg so that the recipient can use it for the next Easter too, it means it’s around for a lot longer than any of the chocolate! I liked it so much – I made another one for myself!

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Last project for Christmas finished and with perfect timing! Introducing 2 cute crochet dinosaurs!

When I saw the pattern for these dinosaurs in a craft shop I just had to make them – I know a little one who absolutley loves dinosaurs so knew they would be perfect! The pattern was a DMC amigurumi pattern (number 14889L/2) And I used DMC Natura Just Cotton in Prussian N64 (bright blue) Passion N23 (orangey red), Tournesol N16 (yellow), Pistache N13 (green), Ibiza N01 (white), light green N12, and Noir N11 (black) to make them. I chose to make one with scales and one with spots, I really liked the stripy one too so I will make that one another time, I ran out of time to make all three!.

The pattern was really simple to follow and the dinosaurs came together in no time, the longest time taken was putting them together and making sure all the spikes and arms were in the right place! I think they look great, I will be sad to see them go but I know they are going to someone who will be over the moon when they open them, I will just have to make myself some more!

So glad I managed to get everything ready in time for Christmas – just! I look forward to a short break from everything crafty and will be enjoying lots of mince pies! Although I have a mountain of projects to get started on for myself including a new patchwork quilt, a crochet blanket and to finish my half started granny square blanket – so I won’t be taking too long a break!

Merry Christmas everyone!

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Squeak Squeak…

I have wanted a doorstop for my hall for a while and had not found the time to find a pattern I liked or get round to making it. Luckily, this weekend I managed to find some time to do one, so I set about looking for a pattern and came across one for a small mouse online from lion brand that I really liked. The pattern is freely available, but you do have to register with them to be able to access it. The good thing is there are thousands of other free patterns which they have available also.

 

It was perfect as it wasn’t too big and I had some left over wool in my stash that was perfect for it… The wool I had was a dark brown colour.

 

It didn’t take long to make at all as the body is one whole continuous piece and all that needs attaching are the ears and nose. I chose not to use the safety eyes that were suggested but instead sewed some on. I used sand in a sealed bag as the weight inside. Also, I decided to add some pink into the ears as once I’d finished the mouse; it looked like it needed something extra. To do this I chose light pink wool and completed the pattern provided below.

 

Magic ring ch1,

Row 1: 5 dc into ring (5dc),

Row 2: 2 dc into each stitch (10dc),

Row 3: 2 dc into next stitch 1dc, 5 times (15dc),

Row 4: 1 dc in each stitch (15dc),

Fasten off, and attach to the inside of the ears.

 

Once I had added this detail I was very happy and I think it really finished it off. It looks great sat in my hall, and even better, it is stopping the door from continually closing itself and driving us mad!

 

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