I am on a cooking theme with my crochet at he moment to get all the food items I am wanting made. Now finished to join the eggs are two links of sausages, one with two sausages and one with three sausages. I decided to do them as links to make them a bit different and a bit easier for little hands to keep a hold of when cooking! Think I might try some mushrooms next! Beans might be a little bit too fiddly!!
A friend of mine has two little ones who are needing some more play food for their play kitchen, so decided I would crochet some up for them as a gift for Easter to go with their chocolate eggs, they will last a lot longer than the chocolate which will be gone in minutes!
I wasn’t too sure what to make to start, so made a list of some foods to try and have started with what thought would be the easiest to make a pattern for – a egg for frying! Or a splattered cream egg since its Easter!
I cracked two of these up in no time and had them done in one evening, I am happy they have come out so well, and am glad I choose to put a stuffed dome on for the yolk at it makes them look even more realistic!
Not too sure what I will make next..I will keep you posted as soon as I have done something else!
I used DMC Natura Just Cotton in Tournesol N16 (yellow) and Ibiza N01 (white).
Fried egg pattern;
Make a magic ring, ch1
Round 1: 6dc into ring
Round 2: 2dc into each dc
Round 3: 2dc into next stitch, 1dc
Round 4: 2dc into next stitch, 2dc
Round 5: 2dc into next stitch, 3dc
Change to white;
Round 6: dc around
Round 7: 2dc into next stitch, 4dc
Round 8: 2dc into next stitch, 5dc
Round 9: 2dc into next stitch, 6dc
Row 1: 10dc, turn
Row 2: ch1, 10dc, turn
Row 3: ch1, dc2tog 6dc dc2tog, turn
Row 4: ch1 dc2tog 4dc dc2tog, turn
Row 5: ch1 dc2tog 2dc dc2tog, turn
Row 6: ch1 dc2tog twice, turn
Ch1, 2dc, then Dc down edge of rows 1-6, 18dc, turn
Row 1: ch1, 16dc, turn
Row 2: ch1, dc2tog 12dc dc2tog, turn
Row 3: ch1, dc2tog 10dc dc2tog, turn
Row 4: ch1, dc2tog 8dc dc2tog, turn
Row 5: ch1, dc2tog 6dc dc2tog, turn
Row 6: ch1, dc2tog 4dc dc2tog, turn
Row 7: ch1, dc2tog, 2dc dc2tog, turn
Ch1, 4dc, then dc down edge of rows 1-7, 12dc, turn
Row 1: ch1, dc2tog 6dc, dc2tog, turn
Row 2: ch1, dc2tog 4dc, dc2tog, turn
Row 3: ch1, dc2tog 2dc, dc2tog, turn
Row 4: ch1, dc2tog twice
dc down edge of rows 1-4, 11dc, turn
Row 1: ch1, dc2tog 4dc, dc2tog
Row 2: ch1, dc2tog 2dc, dc2tog
Dc down edge of rows 1-2, this takes you back to the start of the egg edge waves.
Dc around the whole of the edge of the egg, slip stitch into dc at the start.
Fasten off all loose ends </em>
For yolk dome:
In yellow make a magic ring, ch1
Round 1: 6dc into ring
Round 2: 2dc into each dc
Round 3: 2dc into each dc
Round 4: dc around
Round 5: dc around
Round 6: dc around
Fasten off, leaving long tail to attach to egg base
Place stuffing into yolk dome, then sew onto the egg base in the same location as the yolk area crocheted previously. Fasten off all loose ends.
After making some cards with quilling detail on them, I decided to crack on and make some more cards using things from my stash as it is starting to get a bit too big to control!. I still had loads of items left from the docrafts July 2014 goody bag I hadn’t got round to using, so I decided to make some cards using those.
The items I used from the docrafts Papermania botanicals range included in the goody bag consisted of;
– Botanicals A5 paper pack
– Botanicals A4 decoupage pack, mixed rose
– Botanicals A4 decoupage pack, blousey flowers
– Adhesive lace trim – botanicals
Also included in the bag are some items from the Tilly Daydream and Capsule Collection wild rose Range, from this I used the buttons (Capsule Collection wild rose), and the
Ric rac ribbon (Tilly Daydream in natural).
The brown ribbon used I had in my stash, bought from Hobbycraft.
I really like this range, the flower patterns are so pretty, and they can be used for lots of different occasions. The large decoupage flowers also work as great focus pieces for a card.
Whenever I am busy with a lot of crochet and sewing projects my card making tends to take a back seat, and today I went for a card to send someone and realised my made card box was in a bad way – I had hardly any left!
Therefore I decided since I have got a few crochet projects out the way I was going to take a day to make some more cards! I started looking through my old card magazines for some ideas and saw two straight away in some old Papercraft Inspirations magazines that used quilling, I love doing quilling so set about making then straight away, after digging out all my card making bits to find the right cards and papers I wanted to use – which took a ridiculously long amount of time, I need to have a clear out of get making some more cards to use some of it up!
I choose similar colours as the magazine for the watering can card as I love purple so there was no colour better I could pick! I choose some slightly different colours for the bouquet of flowers so I could sneak in some purple and choose a brighter shade of red.
It took me a while to get all of the bits made, and it is quite fiddly to get them all stuck down but I am really happy with them – the bouquet of flowers I am going to use as my Mother’s Day card as it is perfect for it!.
I’ve seen a lot crochet storage baskets recently, and knew one would be perfect for my mum for Mother’s Day to keep all her spare wool in (I think she has even more than me!). I came across a fox basket on Pinterest (https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/247275835764293017/) and thought it looked really good, and I decided I needed to make an animal theme one in an animal she liked. We both have a thing for owls so I knew straight away that’s what I needed to make. I also decided not to look for a pattern but to make one myself as I knew what I wanted the owl to look like, and haven’t made a pattern up for a big item before so I was looking forward to the challenge. Also making it up from scratch would make the final result much more personal for my gift.
After a few re-starts, unravels, shouts and moments of relief I have finally got both the pattern and basket finished!! I am beyond happy with this make, it has turned out just as I had wanted it to, I was worried half way through that to wouldn’t come Together and I had taken on too much of a challenge but I got there!! I am really looking forward to passing this Gift over, I think she is going to really like it! Now I know I can put a pattern together myself with a good outcome – there’s no stopping me!!
Owl storage basket pattern;
This pattern works in rounds and starts with the base, goes up the sides of the basket working in the face area and ears, other details are added afterward using a surface chain stitch as a base.
Colour of wool used; Dark brown, brown/white stripe wool, cream, yellow, black
Hook; 5.5 mm
Make a Magic ring, ch1
Round 1: 6dc into ring
Round 2: 2dc into each dc (12dc)
Round 3: 2dc into next stitch, dc. Repeat around (18dc)
Round 4: 2dc into next stitch, 2dc. Repeat around (24dc)
Round 5: 2dc into next stitch, 3dc. Repeat around (30dc)
Round 6: 2dc into next stitch, 4dc. Repeat around (36dc)
Round 7: 2dc into next stitch, 5dc. Repeat around (42dc)
Round 8: 2dc into next stitch, 6dc. Repeat around (48dc)
Round 9: 2dc into next stitch, 7dc. Repeat around (54dc)
Round 10: 2dc into next stitch, 8dc. Repeat around (60dc)
Round 11: 2dc into next stitch, 9dc. Repeat around (66dc)
Round 12: 2dc into next stitch,10 dc. Repeat around (72dc)
Round 13: 2dc into next stitch, 11dc. Repeat around (78dc)
Round 14: 2dc into next stitch, 12dc. Repeat around (84dc)
Round 15: 2dc into next stitch, 13dc. Repeat around (90dc)
Round 16: 2dc into next stitch, 14dc. Repeat around (96dc)
Round 17: 2dc into next stitch, 15dc. Repeat around (102dc)
Round 18: 2dc into next stitch, 16dc. Repeat around (108dc)
Round 19: 2dc into next stitch, 17dc. Repeat around (114dc)
Round 20: 2dc into next stitch, 18dc. Repeat around (120dc)
Base has now been made, now the sides will be worked up in rounds;
Change to striped brown,
Round 1: dc around base in back loop only, all way around
Round 2-4: dc around
Round 5: dc2tog, 18dc. Repeat around (114dc)
Round 6: dc2tog, 17dc. Repeat around (108dc)
Round 7-23: dc around
Inclusion of face area – Notes before starting face area; Cast on white, but do not fasten off brown. Then while completing the next round white section sew in the loose striped brown wool thread as you go along (picture 1). Then after completing the white section on the round do not fasten off, leave the thread loose until completing the round in striped brown, then pull it back to the start of the next white section on starting the next round, making sure you start to sew the wool into the brown dc stitch before starting the white wool section (picture 2) and sew in the loose thread as you go along the line again along with the loose striped brown wool (picture 3). Do this on each row so no loose wool threads are visible on the inside.
Picture 1: Sewing in the striped brown wool in the white face section
Picture 2: Sewing in the previous rounds white thread, with it pulled back to the start of the white face section
Picture 3: Sewing in the striped brown and white wool (from the previous round) into the white face section
Picture 4: A few rows completed on the face section, showing all loose wool from colour changes is hidden in the face section
Round 24-28: In white, 30dc. dc rest of the round in striped brown
Round 29: dc in striped brown, 28dc in white. dc around rest of round in striped brown
Round 30: 2dc in striped brown, 25dc in white. dc around rest of the round in striped brown
Round 31: 3dc in striped brown, 23dc in white. dc around rest of the round in striped brown
Round 32: 3dc in striped brown, 8dc in white, 3dc in striped brown, 9dc in white. dc rest of the round in striped brown
Round 33: 4dc in striped brown, 7dc in white, 5dc in striped brown, 7dc in white. dc rest of the round in striped brown
Round 34: 5dc in striped brown, 5dc in white, 6dc in striped brown, 5dc in white. dc rest of the round in striped brown
Round 35: 6dc in striped brown, 3dc in white, 9dc in striped brown, 3dc in white. dc rest of the round in striped brown
Round 36: 7dc in striped brown, 1dc in white, 11dc in striped brown, 1dc in white, dc rest of the round in striped brown. Cut white wool, leaving thread to sew in and finish off
Round 37-38: dc in striped brown all round. Do not fasten off
Continuing in striped brown; 2dc in brown, *dc, htrb (half treble), 4trb, dtrb (double treble), ttrb (triple treble) into next dc, ch3, then slip stitch into 1st ch, ttrb, dtrb, 4trb, htrb, dc into next dc* 18dc, repeat from *to* dc in next dc. Fasten off
Black detail around eyes;
Created using surface slip stitching – start in the bottom right corner of the white section, hook through work (back through to front) (picture 5) then pull black wool back through. Insert hook back into next stitch and back through to the front, wool around hook pull back through wool around hook and pull through all loops on hook = 1dc stitch, complete surface dc stitches the whole way around the edge of the white areas, slip stitch into first dc, fasten off
Picture 5: Hook through work from back through to front
Picture 6: Finished surface stitching
Eyes – make 2;
Starting in black, create magic ring, Ch1
Round 1: 5dc into ring
Round 2: 2dc into each dc (10dc) Change to yellow
Round 3: 2trb into next stitch, 1trb, repeat around (15trb)
Round 4: 2dc into each stitch around, slip stitch into first dc, fasten off leaving long tail to attach
Ruffled feathers effect on the front chest;
To get this ruffled feather effect on the front I used crocodile stitch;
First make the foundation chain for the crocodile stitch;
In dark brown Surface stitch a row of 14dc stitches starting 4 rows down and 8dc along from the bottom of the white face area, work from right to left (picture7)
Picture 7: Creating a row of surface stitches
Row 1: ch4, trb into dc surface stitch at base of ch, *Skip 2dc, trb ch1 trb into same dc (post v created), repeat from * along row (5 sets of v posts created)(picture 8). Fasten off
Picture 8: First and second v post created
Row 2: Starting at base of the first post of the first v made cast on, ch3, then 4trb up the post (picture 9), ch1, 5trb down the next post (picture 10), skip next v *5trb up the post, ch1 then 5trb down the second post in the v, skip next v, repeat from * along row. Fasten off
Picture 9: Starting at the base of the v posts, and working trebles up the first v post
Picture 10: After ch1, working trebles down the next post in the v
Row 3: Cast on in striped brown in the v post chain space (picture 11), ch4 trb, trb ch1 1trb in the next fan chain space, trb ch1 trb in the next v post chain space (3 sets of v posts created) (picture 12). Fasten off
Picture 11: First set of v posts created using the striped brown row in the chain space of the previous row set of v posts
Picture 12: 3 sets of v posts created
Row 4: Fasten on at the base of the first v post ch3, then 4trb up the post, ch1, 5trb down the next post, skip next v, 5trb ch1 5trb in the next v post, slip stitch into next fan ch space. Fasten off
Make a new foundation base for next double row of crocodile stitches in dark brown; Start 2 dc in from the edge of and 11 rows down from the white face area, surface stitch 26dc (picture 13).
Picture 13: Starting the next row of surface stitches for the next set of ruffles
Row 1: ch4, trb into first stitch of surface chain, *skip 2dc, trb ch1 trb into next stitch, repeat from * along row (9 sets of v posts created). Fasten off
Row 2: Starting at base of the first post of the v made, cast on at base, ch 3, then 4trb up the post, ch1, 5trb down the next post, skip next v *5trb up the post, ch1 then 5trb down the second post in the v, skip next v, repeat from * along row. Fasten off at end
Row 3: Cast on in striped brown in the v post chain space ch4 1trb *trb ch1 trb in the next fan chain space, trb ch1 trb in the next v post chain space repeat from * to end of row (7 sets of v posts created). Fasten off
Row 4: Fasten on at the base of the first v post ch3, then 4trb up the post, ch1, 5trb down the next post, *skip next v post, 5trb ch1 5trb in the next v post, repeat from * to end of row, slip stitch into fan chain space in previous row. Fasten off
One last row of crocodile stitches; In dark brown, first create surface chain 6 rows down from previous foundation surface chain, starting and ending at same point (26dc) as the previous foundation chain.
Row 1: ch4 trb into first stitch of surface chain, *skip 2dc, trb ch1 trb into next stitch, repeat from * along row. Fasten off
Row 2: Starting at base of the first post of the v made, cast on at base, ch 3, then 4trb up the post, ch1, 5trb down the next post, skip next v *5trb up the post, ch1 then 5trb down the second post in the v, skip next v, repeat from * along row (9 sets of v posts made in total). Fasten off at end. Feather ruffles are finished.
Counting 5dc to the left of the first dc of the dark brown surface stitch, and working into the base edge of the owl cast on in yellow wool (picture 14).
Picture 14: Starting off the feet, casting on ready to do 6dc
Row 1: 6dc
Row 2-3: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) 6dc
Row 4: ch3, trb into stitch at base of chain, ch3 dc into next stitch. *ch3 trb into next stitch, ch3 dc into next stitch. Repeat from *once more. Fasten off
Repeat rows 1-4 for second foot, start second foot 6dc along from the first foot.
Dc in black around the edge of each foot, fastening off between each foot. At each toe gap (the dc between the two ch3) dc the black into the same dc stitch as the yellow wool to define the claws more.
Surface stitch in the dark brown a row 12dc long, starting 6dc around from the edge of the first row of the white face area.
Row 1-7: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of the row
Row 8: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, 8dc, dc2tog
Row 9: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog,6dc, dc2tog
Row 10-12: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of the row
Row 13: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, 4dc, dc2tog
Row 14: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of the row
Row 15: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, 2dc, dc2tog
Row 16: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of the row
Row 17: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog twice
Row 18: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along rest of the row
Row 19: ch1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog Fasten off (picture 15)
Picture 15: Completed wing
Repeat for the second Wing on the other side, again starting a row of 12 surface dc, 6dc around from the edge of the first row of the white face.
Surface stitch a row of 6 Starting 2rows up and 2dc to the right of the black surface stitch in the centre dip of the White face area (picture 16).
Picture 16: Starting the beak surface stitch row
Row 1-2: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) dc along row
Row 3: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog, 2dc,dc2tog
Row 4: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog twice
Row 5: ch 1 (does not count as a stitch) dc2tog Fasten off
Attach the eyes and beak to the face Fasten off all loose ends…….all finished!!!!
It’s a busy time of year for me again at the moment for making gifts, first there is Mother’s Day, closely followed by Easter both of which I have a number of projects to make for! Not that I am complaining about having things to make – I love making gifts, my main concern is whether I will get them all finished in time! Also I have a number of projects I am itching to get started on and to complete for myself, but these will just have to wait for now!
I have been busy this week working on both my Mother’s Day present and Easter one, and have just got the Easter one finished first……
Cheeping happily out of the craft basket is a very cute bird potholder! I came across this pot holder in Simply Crochet magazine issue 28 and just had to make it for Easter! I had some cotton in different shades of blue left over from another project which I knew would be perfect, along with some leftover cotton in Orange and yellow so set about making it. I was really surprised how quickly it came together – I had it finished in an evening! I love a quick make – especially when I have so many others I want to get done!
This cherpy little make is brilliant, it makes me smile when I look at it, and it is going to make a perfect present for Easter, I like giving something crafty to keep along with a chocolate egg so that the recipient can use it for the next Easter too, it means it’s around for a lot longer than any of the chocolate! I liked it so much – I made another one for myself!
After finishing the main part of my crochet Pom Pom blanket using a wavy stitch, I was undecided on what to do for the border. I had a few ideas in mind ranging from a basic dc stitch around in different coloured rows, a fan effect around using trebles, or waves around. However after seeing the crocodile stitch in Simply Crochet magazine issue 26 I knew this was the one to go for, as it is a bit different and a perfect match to the slightly crazy Pom Pom blanket!
Also I have never tried this stitch before and I love to try something new. It did take a while to get the hang of, especially as I had to change it slightly from the pattern to get what I wanted with the stitch so that it would point outwards from the blanket rather than inward to the blanket. I did wonder why I decided to pick something I hadn’t done before and it has taken me a while but it was definitely worth the trouble as it really finishes the blanket off and gives a bit of texture around the edges, and now I have a new stitch in my inventory! I already have another project in mind using it! I did a row of dc stitches around the edge first in pink ready for the border to go on to. I then used an orangy colour for the first set of crocodile stitches around.
To get the crocodile stitch to go around like it has;
I competed row 1 of the pattern the whole way around around the blanket to make the v posts;
Ch4, trb into stitch at base of ch, *skip 2 stitches, trb1, ch1, trb1 into next stitch (this created the first v group), repeat from *the whole way around. This them created the v group posts for the crocodile stitch to go into.
As I then wanted the stitch to point outward I fastened off after row 1, then reattached the same colour wool at the base of a treble post from row 1;
ch3, then I completed 4 trb up to the top of the post, ch1, then 5trb down the next post in the v, rather than the pattern which went down the first post then up the next. Then the same as the pattern I *skipped the next v post and Then at the next v stitch I started at the base, 5trb up to top then 5trb back down the next post. Then I repeated from * the whole way around the blanket.
~ Trebles going down the next side of the v post
Next I repeated row 1 and 2 again in the next colour and fastened off. Making sure that for the row after creating the v posts that I put the trebles up and down the v posts in the gap made between the crocodile stitches on row 2, so that they were not directly behind the previous crocodile stitch but in the next v post along.
I did one round in orange and one round in the pink from the blanket, I didn’t do any more as I thought it would make the border too heavy.
I can’t believe I am at the end of this project – it is the biggest crochet project I have undertaken, and it has taken me a while to get through but it has been worth it, I absolutely love this blanket it is just what I wanted. Perfectly snugly for all this cold weather, I think I am going to hibernate in it for a while!
I am really pleased I have managed to get two big projects finished of my list in the last week – this pom Pom blanket and the granny square blanket, however, there are plenty of new projects lining up to fill their space!